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CA Ice conditions 12/13

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.

Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:49 pm

Post up some photos to validate your claim of "in".


One's interp of what "IN" is so relative to say the least.

From today's posted SMG LVC Ice Report, I would take the above as being one of those folks that does not know what "in" is for the C-Wall. Oh yeah, notice the Approach report???


"In" to me means can place screws in strong enough ice. I can place a few photos for you when I get home. Did not see anyone from SMG there on Sunday- conditions on ice vary day to day.
To go more into details- the right side of Chouinard was thick and nice. Left was more thin but had protectable lines. Far left (wi4 curtains) were not formed enough to be led (by me at least).

As I said regarding the approach, it is not a nice snow trail but doable for people who do not mind some boulder hopping or punching through in a few spots. Basically it was a no problem for anyone in my group (on Sunday). Took 45mins to an hour tops. You act like people should not go climbing if SMG posts the approach as grim- it's a personal judgement and how you define good approach vs bad approach. To me bad would be getting attacked by the bees or bush whacking for miles in thick brush. Some boulder hoping does not bother me.
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:09 pm

The Chief wrote:
"In" to me means can place screws in strong enough ice. I can place a few photos for you when I get home. Did not see anyone from SMG there on Sunday- conditions on ice vary day to day.
To go more into details- the right side of Chouinard was thick and nice. Left was more thin but had protectable lines. Far left (wi4 curtains) were not formed enough to be led (by me at least).

As I said regarding the approach, it is not a nice snow trail but doable for people who do not mind some boulder hopping or punching through in a few spots. Basically it was a no problem for anyone in my group (on Sunday). Took 45mins to an hour tops. You act like people should not go climbing if SMG posts the approach as grim- it's a personal judgement and how you define good approach vs bad approach. To me bad would be getting attacked by the bees or bush whacking for miles in thick brush. Some boulder hoping does not bother me.


Please post up some photos so we can judge your definition of what is "in" compared to the Normal definition of what is really "In" for that area.

No photos No validity to your report.


And how many times have you been to LVC in the past, oh, let's say, ten years?

Or should I say the past year?

Be advised that the CONDITIONS in LVC DO NOT VARY from day to day from Jan through the 3rd week of Mar in a Normal Season. They are for the most part very consistent during that period of time. But then you would have known that if you have been there during a Normal Season.

What ever...


You have mental problems.
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby saltlick » Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:32 pm

While not "in" by Chief's estimation, Chouinard's had three, maybe four, climbable lines on 12/16. Approach wasn't great, but was far better than early season last year...took us less than an hour. Main Wall is extremely thin, and BH is indeed "dry as a bone."

Image

Image
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Princess Buttercup » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:06 pm

Nice pics, saltlick. I think I met you guys at Nicely's on Sunday morning?

Looks like the ski approaches are a bit more amenable to me, at least, for now. December POW and the VA Lakes road plowed almost all the way back in is too good to be missed!

-L
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Princess Buttercup » Mon Dec 17, 2012 10:41 pm

You're right... I wasn't actually there... ;)

I was fishing your sorry ass outta the creek.

:shock: :o :shock: :o
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Vitaliy M. » Mon Dec 17, 2012 11:47 pm

Sorry, but that is NO WHERE near being IN per NORMAL LVC standards.


Well it was IN enough for 3 people (me included) to lead and adequately protect 3 different lines on Chouinard falls. I did mention (in a previous post) ice is thin on the left, but there ARE lines that are in (my definition of in is enough ice to protect and climb the line). No one is dragging you out there Chief, STFU already. You are as annoying as it gets these days. This is a conditions report thread, simply posting own observation based on climbing I have done there for a few hours yesterday. Wait till you get out there and have a personal report.
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby toxo » Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:00 am

MooseTracks wrote:You're right... I wasn't actually there... ;)

I was fishing your sorry ass outta the creek.

:shock: :o :shock: :o


We need a TR of this^ incident. :lol:

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CA icy water conditions.
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Bob Burd » Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:12 am

The Chief wrote:I sent SALTLICKS photo to my local ice partner who has been climbing at LVC for the past 15 years plus with me.

I just got off the phone with him. These are the words that first came outta his mouth...

"You got to be kidding me....Who are these fkng NOOBS! This is a joke right???? We were out there on Friday and I wouldn't dare touch that stuff with your.... Dangerous to say the least. We can wait for some real ice thanks. Let the NOOBs kill themselves."


Really, he said "NOOBs"? Isn't that one of the most tired memes of the Internet, ever? I just can't imagine hardmen such as yourselves actually using that. Generally it's just propagated by insecure neophytes who want to give the impressive of being badass. He must have said something else and you simply misheard him...
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:21 am

TinOmen wrote:
MooseTracks wrote:You're right... I wasn't actually there... ;)

I was fishing your sorry ass outta the creek.

:shock: :o :shock: :o


We need a TR of this^ incident. :lol:

Image

CA icy water conditions.


Image

Driving the car into the creek says it all!


dude that did that did not get to climb ice :lol:
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:30 am

The Chief wrote:I sent SALTLICKS photo to my local ice partner who has been climbing at LVC for the past 15 years plus with me.

I just got off the phone with him. These are the words that first came outta his mouth...

"You got to be kidding me....Who are these fkng NOOBS! This is a joke right???? We were out there on Friday and I wouldn't dare touch that stuff with your.... Dangerous to say the least. We can wait for some real ice thanks. Let the NOOBs kill themselves."


Hope both of you yuppie maggots stay in your rocking chairs till SMG people come over to wipe your aging ass and tell you it is ok to climb in Lee Vining, or walk around Bishop without a cane. In addition, why do you care about Lee Vining? There are other BC routes in Sierra "only locals know about" so please keep to those obscure gems only a few people of the inner circle know, and leave the LVC zoo to all of us noobs to enjoy.

Please do tell us who the "dude" was!

I just taked to ED at LV Towing. Told me the whole scoop.

I dunno who drove the car off. I climbed there on Sunday (owens river gorge friday and saturday), heard it happened on Friday night. Your friend who towed their car should tell you their name, shouldn't he?! haha You got off the phone with him just now? You lying maggot!
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Dec 18, 2012 12:55 am

The Chief wrote:
Ah, Privacy Statements dissallow him from divulging names VM!

But I have a pretty good idea.


So if he told you the 'whole scoop', I do not think you need to ask questions here!
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby butitsadryheat » Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:05 am

Sorry, but privacy statements? from a tow company? Is there a big need to protect those who get in accidents or those whose car breaks down?
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:45 am

Here are a few pictures from Lee Vining canyon. Wish it was easier to upload straight into the post, so I could post them here...

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom ... TYgJyUiIg,,
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom ... TYhISYlIw,,
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Dec 18, 2012 9:11 am

You can post them like this...

Chouinard Falls
Image


Main Wall and Chouinard Falls
Image

To post them, hit the reply button, then there is a tab below the submit button that is labeled 'Upload attachment', or if you have already loaded them somewhere like ST like you have here, you can just right click on the image to view properties, then paste the address with image tags around it.
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Re: CA Ice conditions 12/13

Postby John Duffield » Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:56 pm

mrchad9 wrote:To post them, hit the reply button, then there is a tab below the submit button that is labeled 'Upload attachment', or if you have already loaded them somewhere like ST like you have here, you can just right click on the image to view properties, then paste the address with image tags around it.

P1010947.JPG
Dacks Ice
P1010947.JPG (623.47 KiB) Viewed 443 times


Sorry, I needed to try this, THANK YOU!
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