I have revised and up-dated the Expedition Medicine Article I wrote in November 2010. This has been in response to various messages and discussions the article triggered, but also based on a little new information and some recent personal experience at altitude.
Having updated this article in December, I subsequently received very helpful information from Dr David Hillebrandt (President of UIAA Medical Commission) especially on Frostbite management - and in addition he put me in contact with Adam Marcinowitz, who kindly allowed me to use his own case history as well as a fantastic little series of 4 digital images. I couldn't possibly leave this out and so have updated the article yet again. Happy New Year Mark