otto6457 wrote:Cy Kaicener wrote:http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=21150
I hope this isn't too dumb a question, but as a beginner I'm a little confused by part of the article.
"Bolotov in turn appeared in another set of news today, forwarded by Abramov's 7summits-club, stating that Denis Urubko in an interview with Kazakh site Sports.kz talked about his plan to climb Everest in alpine style via a new route together with Bolotov.
Alpine style climbs are usually done on lower peaks, but a few climbers - such as Denis - have mastered to summit 8000ers this way. "If we manage to climb in alpine style on Everest, I think it will be a significant event, a new word in the history of mountaineering," Denis said. "For my self-realization as an athlete, it is very important.""
When they say "alpine style" for a peak like Everest, does this mean no camps up on the mountain? They will carry everything they need by themselves from base camp? And if that is the case, how fast can they climb Everest in this manner? Wouldn't weather be even more critical climbing like this since you couldn't carry much food or anything else for that matter and much time trapped at high elevation by the weather could be fatal even faster?
Sorry if I'm way off base here.
No Otto, you're spot on. No stocked camps, stop when you're tired. As far as speed goes, the current record is: "8 hours 10 minutes, set by Pemba Dorjee Sherpa on May 21 " (Climbing.com). That's quite an impressive achievement, and it's highly unlikely that Urubko and Bolotov will even come close to that time, but one bivvy on the way up, and then the summit and a complete descent back to base camp, seems do-able.
No doubt good weather is vital, and a mistake or miscalculation there could easily be tragic, as you correctly point out.