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Central Gully Mount Washington

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Eastern US. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Eastern US Climbing Partners section.
 

Re: Central Gully Mount Washington

Postby nartreb » Tue Jan 22, 2013 4:48 am

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Re: Central Gully Mount Washington

Postby kozman18 » Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:43 pm

The snow rangers who handle Tucks and Huntington do a great job. Aside from the important SAR services they provide, they arrive at Harvard Cabin early in the morning to give climbers an avalanche report and to answer questions about snow/ice conditions in the ravines/gullies. They also provide great analyses of accidents in the ravines without being judgmental.

You can learn a lot from reading their reports (helps to avoid making similar mistakes). The report on the Central avalanche gives a lot of detail on the factors that played a role in the avalanche (and in the resulting injuries). Worth a read -- good stuff.
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Re: Central Gully Mount Washington

Postby Hotoven » Tue Feb 05, 2013 3:38 am

AlexeyD wrote:
divnamite wrote:To be honest, no matter how sustained the climb is, Central is still WI2 at the hardest condition. Other than avalanches and climbing below another party, I don't see there is any problem. In terms of climbing skills, WI2 doesn't require much front pointing unless the ice is bullet proof.


Ah, but I think it does matter, and a lot. Several hundred feet of sustained WI2 means that you have to plan on making ice-only belay anchors, so figure 4 screws (2 per anchor) just for the belays, plus however many you think you'll want for intermediate pro. In addition to the ice, you may be dealing with steep, hard-packed snow for which you may or may not need pickets, depending on whether you think self-arrest will be possible. Will a beginner be able to ask him or herself these types of questions before the climb, and be able to educate themselves properly on the conditions and then answer them accordingly? If the answer is no, then I stand by my original statement that Central is not a beginner-appropriate climb.


I agree, Very well put Alexey.
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