I've got the day off on Sunday and I'm looking for a peak to do in the Eastern Sierra that won't require and Ice Axe. Since it's been a pretty low snow year I was hoping I might have some luck with either the South Ridge of Mount Gould or Mount Langley via New Army Pass. I know that may be asking for too much on May 19th, but I figure that they're south facing and there hasn't been a lot of snow this winter so who knows? Does anyone have any information or speculation as to whether or not one of those peaks might be ready to do without an Axe? More importantly, can anyone suggest a better idea for and early season peak sans Ice Axe in the Eastern Sierra this weekend? Thanks in advance.

Any of the Army passes will require axe. You could climb Cirque via the 3rd/4th class ridge before ascending New Army.
Gould would doable without axe. As well as several peaks out of South Lake to Bishop Pass. Hell, I haven't used an axe or crampons since March, but those were definitely 40+ degrees steep.

(Old) Army last weekend (we went up the center chute):



Top of New Army:



There was only about a 50ft vert stretch to top out on NAP that I was more comfie (descending) using 'pons/axe. Nasty landing, and the snow at that time was newer and softer on a firm base. Ew. Friends did Trailmaster and Cirque that weekend and did not have to use gear, but the boulder-postholing was epic.

Gould is probably a better bet (south-facing), since that face has been clear for weeks.

simonov wrote:Any of you guise know the provenance of the name of Army Pass?

If I recall correctly, R.J. Secor mentions this in his book "The High Sierra".

I'm looking at my topo and I see an unnamed high point, "12,838" due north of Muir Lake that looks like it may have a south facing scramble to the top. Any of you ever been up there? Maybe I'll give that a go. It's no big deal if I get turned around by snow anyway, I just can't wait to get up to the high country.

That's probably Woolyback, or Shark's Fin just north of that.

I did Gould a few weeks ago and no axe was needed. Pretty much the entire trail to Kearsarge was snow free other than a few spots. I just wore waterproof trail shoes and was fine.