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Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

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Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby artrock23 » Sun May 26, 2013 6:12 pm

I'd like to get a good general-purpose mountaineering climbing harness, one that can be put on and removed without taking off boots/crampons/etc.
So far, the one that looks good is the Black Diamond 'Couloir'. Any relevant suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sun May 26, 2013 6:35 pm

Couloir is a very good, lightweight harness for mountaineering. If you are planning on rock climbing/ice climbing/alpine climbing where you will be rappelling and/or hanging in it for any length of time I would look at harness with a swami belt and leg loops style construction rather than the diaper style of the Couloir. Camp has some good light weight mountaineering harnesses as well.
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby artrock23 » Sun May 26, 2013 8:43 pm

ExcitableBoy wrote:Couloir is a very good, lightweight harness for mountaineering. If you are planning on rock climbing/ice climbing/alpine climbing where you will be rappelling and/or hanging in it for any length of time I would look at harness with a swami belt and leg loops style construction rather than the diaper style of the Couloir. Camp has some good light weight mountaineering harnesses as well.


I had a look at the Camp harnesses. The 'Blitz' looks nice. Are the more comfortable harnesses you suggest also known as "sit" harnesses? Any brands/models in particular?
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby Josh Lewis » Mon May 27, 2013 12:00 am

I been pretty pleased with my Black Diamond Alpine Bod harness.
My Websites: Alpine Josh · Alpine Ascent · AceMaps
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby ExcitableBoy » Mon May 27, 2013 3:01 pm

artrock23 wrote:
I had a look at the Camp harnesses. The 'Blitz' looks nice. Are the more comfortable harnesses you suggest also known as "sit" harnesses? Any brands/models in particular?


I don't know if sit harness refers specifically to a swami/leg loops style harness or just modern harnesses in general. Here is a page that shows the two styles side by side. http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/harnesses.html Look at the Couloir vs. the other models.

The BD Bod harness that Josh mentioned is also a diaper style. I had a Chouinard (pre Black Diamond) Bod and it was a really burly, durable harness, but uncomfortable to hang or rappel in for any length of time.

My buddy has a CAMP Air CR which he likes a lot, same weight as the BD Couloir: http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/harnesses/camp-air-cr-climbing-harness.html I am climbing in a Petzl Adjama which is heavier than either, but very comfortable for rock/ice/alpine/even aid climbing.
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby radson » Mon May 27, 2013 3:57 pm

I use a Pair of Pyjamas as well....thats what I call my Petzl Adjama :)
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby artrock23 » Mon May 27, 2013 4:38 pm

Thanks for the suggestions! The Petzl Adjama is looking best, so far. It gets really high reviews, as well. I think that comfort is a big factor (the BD Bod looks really functional and sturdy, but the main complaints I hear about it that it's uncomfortable with extended use).
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby Damien Gildea » Tue May 28, 2013 1:09 am

I used a BD Bod for years and thought they were fine. I've used several Alpine Bods and also thought they were fine, though not for extended hanging. I tried the BD Couloir and it just did not fit me properly at all, almost unwearable.

I've been using a Petzl Hirundos for alpine climbing, it is super light but noticeably more comfortable than the Bods, but actually not sufficiently padded for extended hanging or rapping (understandably, as it is intended as a light sport harness). So I've looked at the Adjama too and think it would be a better all-round option.
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby logsden » Tue May 28, 2013 2:58 am

Coulior is fine for mountaineering use. A few caveats though.

- absolutely awful buckle design. it's like an Alpine Bod buckle but too small to actually be workable with gloves on. and without gloves is still a pain if you are throwing it on in single digit temps while wearing a puffy. you can work around this ... but it sucks enough that I won't be buying another one.
- gear loops are less than ideal if you use them with any frequency. just hard to clip at times.
- stretches when wet more than other harnesses I've used. this is only a real issue if doing something like an extended crack rescue session or some other relatively high load situation.

but...it's light weight and packs down to nothing. that's worth something.

I'll be buying a Camp Blitz next.

ymmv
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby ScottyP » Thu May 30, 2013 2:24 am

I have always used the Bod but I am moving away from it. IMHO it carries to much padding for my cold climbs. I am already wearing several layers before I put it on, I do not need the extensive padded belt. I may try a ski harness for my next cold peak. Again, Judy my opinion. Scott
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby Gafoto » Fri May 31, 2013 5:54 pm

Most of the BD harnesses are stupid heavy from what I can see. I have an Arc'teryx I340 for ice climbing that works great as an overall harness. Spendy, but it's comfortable and decently lightweight.

The Edelrid Loopo Light looks pretty attractive as a harness if you plan on going light on gear or wearing a gear sling anyway.
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Re: Suggestions for a 'mountaineering' climbing harness

Postby artrock23 » Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:07 pm

Thanks for the comments and suggestions, everyone.

After getting the opportunity to try one on, I went ahead and ordered a Petzl Adjama harness.
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