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Suggestions for a good 'alpine' rope?

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Suggestions for a good 'alpine' rope?

Postby artrock23 » Sun Jun 16, 2013 6:37 pm

I've much appreciated your suggestions for climbing harnesses. The Petzl Adjama I got, based on recommendations here, is working well.

Next up, i'm looking at options for my first climbing rope. It will be used mostly for Sierra climbs (rock and snow/ice), glacier crossings, and probably local stuff like Tahquitz and Joshua Tree. Although weight is a concern, i'd like something versatile, probably in the 9.2-9.8 range, and standard 60m.

The Mammut 'Infinity' sounds good, but I thought it could be useful to ask you who have experience for your suggestions. Thanks in advance!
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Re: Suggestions for a good 'alpine' rope?

Postby seano » Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:34 pm

I have a super-thin Mammut single 50m, which works well for alpine stuff. Due to wind/terrain/etc., communication and rope drag are usually enough of a pain on alpine routes that 50m is plenty. However, if you're doing a lot of cragging, you'll need at least a 60m, and want something fat and durable. If you can't buy two ropes, I would get something fat, long, and cheap, then buy a nice alpine rope (if necessary) when you can.

I'm hardly an expert at this "roped climbing" thing, though.
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Re: Suggestions for a good 'alpine' rope?

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:27 pm

seano wrote:I have a super-thin Mammut single 50m, which works well for alpine stuff. Due to wind/terrain/etc., communication and rope drag are usually enough of a pain on alpine routes that 50m is plenty. However, if you're doing a lot of cragging, you'll need at least a 60m, and want something fat and durable. If you can't buy two ropes, I would get something fat, long, and cheap, then buy a nice alpine rope (if necessary) when you can.


I agree. You are asking for two ropes, an alpine rope and a cragging rope. I also like my alpine rope/s in 50m lengths. Less weight, less rope to get tangled, long enough for most things. Steve House and Vince Anderson climbed the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, the largest alpine face in the world, with an 8mm x 50m half rope and a 5.5mm x 55m tag line for rappels.
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