Anyone know where to find current beta on the Cordillera Blanca? Everyone keeps telling me the conditions are bad this year and I can't find anyplace to get the real scoop. Any help would be appreciated. If its in Spanish, that's ok too (I don't think I've lost everything just yet)...

You might check with Casa de Guias in Huaraz.

It was nice to meet you in Leadville yesterday.

Woodie

A friend down there says that the range had a particularly heavy snow season, so waiting till late season may help; i'll see if i can get more info

I just got here and it doesn't look too good. I have Pisco and Chopicalqui lined up for tomorrow but will probably have to call off Chopicalqui if the Moiuntain-forecast.com reports for the next 6 days are accurate. Without having talked to enough people yet all I can do is keep my fingers crossed!!

Nice to meet you too Woddie!

Thanks all... I think its going to be a bit of a crap shoot... but then again, it usually is...

In heavy snow years, the Ausangate region is usually in condition before the Blanca.

http://www.summitpost.org/nevado-ausangate/656215

I don't know if you have any interest in that area at all, but just thought I'd mention it as a possible alternative to look into. (I don't have current conditions on either).

The Ausangate / Vilcanota area certainly gets different weather to the Blanca. I climbed Ausangate in June 2011 and we had mostly great weather, while others I know who were up in the Blanca around the same time had bad weather.

Problem with Ausangate in heavy snow or very early season is that the upper plateau, from around 5700m or so on the normal route, is relatively low angled and is notorious for deep snow. It's quite a way to the top and might be impossible for just two climbers with no trail in.

A friend was climbing in Bolivia a month ago and in his photos (Pequeno Alpamayo etc) I thought the peaks looked relatively bare for so early in the season (early June) and the locals apparently were telling him climbing conditions were 'good' - meaning for them, not too much snow.

Which route in particular? the weather has been poor lately but is starting to stabilize. Casa de guias has pretty good info. The se face of artesonraju and other southern routes are fairly well loaded and untouched this season. Most other aspects have been climbed, and are gaining popularity with the improving morning weather. Alpamayo and the popular routes have conga lines all ready.

We're at zarelas in huaraz now after a couple lower peaks but we are headed out again in the morning.

Thanks for the conditions updates, headed down in a couple weeks and I greatly appreciate having a small idea of whats in.

Cheers!

Friend and I just climbed Quitaraju's NF (variation) and Alpamayo's French Direct. After a week+ of shit weather there were a lot of climbers in camp and first day we counted about 15-16 people on route (so wen't to climb Quitaraju, - no one else climbed that even after we broke trail). Next day still many people on Alpamayo so we started at 10:30 am from tent. Took about 3 hours to climb the route without simul climbing (friend broke a pick). If you are competent this route goes really quick and there is no need for a 2am start. Basically depends on your skills set and how acclimated you are.

Wrote a blog post about it with lots of photos.:
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... o-and.html

Hatun Machay is a nice place to acclimate too:
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2013/0 ... achay.html

Good luck and have fun. It is a beautiful place.



Would love to hear is someone climbed steep South-Facing routes like South Face of Caraz I, Jager route on Chacraraju Este, or French Direct (S face) of Chacraraju Oeste!

In Huaraz now. Weather is improving, but not as good as years past. Headed out tomorrow, will report back as applicable.

V - congrats on the Ferarri and Quitaraju.

Good luck! We were down there a few weeks ago and the snow conditions were AWFUL! Sounds like they're getting better now though. Have fun, Peru is awesome!

Yes, good luck and we're looking forward to seeing the photos/TR.

Hi Guys,

Any update on conditions? Are those south faces stabilizing?

Peruanos down there are climbing everything... I think its starting to stabilize... friends climbed Alpamayo after a foot of snow fell the night before and reported good conditions/no problems.

I was on a northerly ridge route and conditions were fine (if anything, a little too firm).

Weather is officially a crapshoot. Locals are now calling 2013 officially "bizzare" for the changes in weather patterns... just get down there and see... enjoy! Its a magical place...