Hey all,
I'm looking for a buddy to climb shasta with me in early August. I haven't been on Shasta, but I have some experience with glacier climbing and know the technical systems and whatnot. I'd like to do one of the glaciated routes, preferably the Whitney Glacier, or Cascade Gulch (moving onto the Whitney Glacier when we reach the saddle between Shasta and Shastina). I'm looking for someone with some glacier experience to climb one of those routes with me in early to mid August. I'd also be down to do a get-to-know-each-other hike in the Bay Area, such as Mount Tam or something of similar or greater difficulty.

Hey I think I'm booked for August. But may be up for some fall stuff if you are interested in additional trips. I want to do a December outing too!

FYI Shasta sucks in August! Come back next spring for a awesome climb..

^^^^^
Ah an inexperienced Shasta climber. Welcome!

mrchad9 wrote:Hey I think I'm booked for August. But may be up for some fall stuff if you are interested in additional trips. I want to do a December outing too!

mrchad: I'm up for some fall stuff too, I'd just rather get up there beforehand if at all possible. I don't know much about the routes on Shasta, but I'd like to do a glaciated route such as the Whitney or Hotlum Glacier (Both seem more interesting than a rock and talus slog up Avalanche Gulch, and they both seem like better mountaineering experience). I know my way around anchor building and crevasse rescue systems from technical rescue classes and from my trip to Alaska, but I'm new to Mt. Shasta itself. How does that sound to you?

Let me see what else I have going on. I was thinking of a late season trip up Whitney next year but maybe could consider it this year. It'd be cool to do it in low snow conditions like we have now.

And i'm going back to Shasta this weekend again.

BTW, why don't you solo it.

clmbr wrote:And i'm going back to Shasta this weekend again.

BTW, why don't you solo it.

Guessing you're doing a north side route? Let us know what conditions are like when you get back!

mtvalley wrote:

clmbr wrote:And i'm going back to Shasta this weekend again.

BTW, why don't you solo it.

Guessing you're doing a north side route? Let us know what conditions are like when you get back!

Icy, icy, icy, bring ice screws if you want some protection, pickets are seldom useful. The middle bergshrand is rather open all the way with an overhang upper wall.

Pics?

Trip and video report: http://www.summitpost.org/whitney-glacier-icefalls/860663