People often go up through the notch late in the summer, to climb Sill without ice axe or crampons. Some friends went 6-29, I'll look at their pics to see what they encountered. Last mention I've seen:http://firstchurchofthemasochist.blogsp ... y-via.html
Last year at this time (similar weather, lack of snow), the "problem" was more the condition of the North Couloir. Late in the season, as the snow shrinks, people often go on the sides around it, and avoid snow entirely (but on crumbly 3rd class). Last year, there was enough snow to warrant use of axe and crampons, but near the top of the snow, a lot of hard (dangerous) ice was showing through.
There are two reports on Summitpost for that route on July 17... maybe a PM...
AlexeyD said: "Via "L couloir" and SW ridge, from Sam Mack Meadow. Some snow remaining on Apex-SW ridge section made things a bit tricky, but manageable. Great conditions on couloir and Palisade Glacier. Incredible summit views. A bit of roped downclimbing on 4th-class section on the descent. All in all an awesome objective with a good, healthy level of mountaineering challenge and 5-star scenery."