Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby Daria » Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:54 am

So bummed I have to work the next 2 days (Tuesday, Wednesday.)

Going to miss you guys a lot!
I'm the top troll.
User Avatar
Daria

 
Posts: 426
Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2008 12:33 am
Location: Eastern Sierra, California, United States
Thanked: 231 times in 159 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby Daria » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:12 am

seano wrote:
Bob Burd wrote:then Sean and Eric went north towards Muir Pass to climb Black Giant and then follow it to Black Divide.

Tom G. did as well.

Also, given more information about my 5th metacarpal, peaks will probably not be bagged for a little while. Sorry, folks...


that's terrible! You can bum around at my place if you need a place to recover. There's the Keough hot springs you can soak in too, 10 min away.

What info did you get about your pinky?
I'm the top troll.
User Avatar
Daria

 
Posts: 426
Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2008 12:33 am
Location: Eastern Sierra, California, United States
Thanked: 231 times in 159 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:52 am

seano wrote:
Bob Burd wrote:Sean might have dislocated or broken a finger in the effort. It wasn't looking too good when we saw it back at the TH.

Peak bagging will continue, but blogging will be limited.



Get well! Catching up on blogging is tiring :)
User Avatar
Vitaliy M.

 
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:23 am
Location: San Francisco, California, United States
Thanked: 287 times in 215 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby Vitaliy M. » Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:09 am

Bob Burd wrote:
3Deserts wrote:Hey, whoa, stop the presses: what the hell is THAT and why haven't I heard of it and why is there like zero information on this?


We wondered the same thing, but the register had half a dozen enties from from folks doing technical climbs. The most prominent appears to be: NE Ridge 5.8 II, FA Dingus Milktoast & Brutus of Wyde.


Were there any people who entered about climbing that face?
User Avatar
Vitaliy M.

 
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:23 am
Location: San Francisco, California, United States
Thanked: 287 times in 215 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby artrock23 » Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:04 am

seano wrote:Also, given more information about my 5th metacarpal, peaks will probably not be bagged for a little while.


Did you break your 5th metacarpal?

I broke mine in '09 mountain biking, and was in a cast for 6 weeks. No fun, especially after the cast comes off and all the joints are stiff as hell.
User Avatar
artrock23

 
Posts: 133
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2011 4:26 pm
Location: Laguna Beach, California, United States
Thanked: 416 times in 219 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby seano » Tue Aug 20, 2013 2:42 pm

artrock23 wrote:Did you break your 5th metacarpal?

I broke mine in '09 mountain biking, and was in a cast for 6 weeks. No fun, especially after the cast comes off and all the joints are stiff as hell.

Yep. I'm in a splint rather than a cast, but it will still be 6 frustrating weeks.
User Avatar
seano

 
Posts: 370
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:52 pm
Location: Western, United States
Thanked: 73 times in 66 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby orbitor » Tue Aug 20, 2013 4:50 pm

Bob,
We climbed University Peak by way of University Pass on Saturday, August 17. Since you all are planning on going this way on Day 8, I wanted to share a few observations/give heads-up. That pass is the most forsaken climb I have done so far. Steep and incredibly loose, especially the last 500' of slope. Between four people, spread out, we sent tons of rocks, sand, gravel down the east side. I almost got nailed when one above me released a medium sized rock which gathered speed and was going to make a direct hit. I leaned left at the last moment and it missed me by inches. Another guy below witnessed the whole thing and got so unnerved, he gave up on the summit attempt, dropped down into Center Basin and hiked out by way of Kearsarge Pass - an extra 13 miles and 3000' gain just so he wouldn't have to go back the same way. The rest of us descended via the pass after summiting. Now, going up is bad, but down is a total nightmare. Inevitably you will end up surfing on top of increasingly large and unstable piles of rocks. I slipped and fell a few times, finding myself riding on the pile like on an avalanche. It was terrifying.
Hope everyone in SC makes it through safely. There is no snow or ice on these slopes, just lots of dirt, rocks and dust. No more than 4 people should go up or down the slope at the same time. Distance between individuals should be at least 50 ft, particularly in a vertical direction. Good luck!
Mihai
User Avatar
orbitor

 
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2009 10:31 pm
Location: North Hollywood, California, United States
Thanked: 13 times in 3 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby seano » Tue Aug 20, 2013 5:04 pm

revolvingscimitar wrote:That pass is the most forsaken climb I have done so far.

:lol: Since I first experienced it, I have used the "University Pass Unit" as a measure for crappy scree. Armstrong Canyon is one of the few places I have measured as more than 1.0 UPU.
User Avatar
seano

 
Posts: 370
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:52 pm
Location: Western, United States
Thanked: 73 times in 66 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby mrchad9 » Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:09 pm

Ascending Thunder Pass, east of Thunder Mountain, is mightily unpleasant when snow free.

Descending University Pass is one of the most enjoyable bits of elevation losses I've experienced. Less than 15 minutes and you can practically boot ski 1000 feet down to the terrain below.
User Avatar
mrchad9

 
Posts: 4291
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:01 am
Location: San Ramon, California, United States
Thanked: 1232 times in 837 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby Ze » Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:13 pm

Was nice meeting a bunch of really crazy, but nice people. Did technically "easy" ascents of Matterhorn and Morgan / Twelve Flags the first 2 days. Had to pass on the 3rd day as I blew up my ankle on the 2nd day descent as a large slab gave out under me. Scrambling down the rest of the way on one good leg was interesting. Thanks to those who hung out me as I hobbled down from Francis Lake!
User Avatar
Ze

 
Posts: 336
Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:50 am
Location: Bay Area, California, United States
Thanked: 60 times in 32 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby Bob Burd » Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:10 am

Day - Twin Peaks
This unofficially named 13er is located west of Mt. Prater, about two miles from the Sierra Crest. Though it had the same gain as Black Divide (9,100ft), it was several hours easier. Pat was the first to the pass north of Split in about 3.5hrs, Eric just behind her. Jonathan and I got there half an hour later, with others further behind. From the pass (actually the side of Split Mtn, not really the saddle with Prater), one drops 1,000ft to a delightful alpine lake in a beautiful setting before climbing 1,000ft up to Twin. Twin turned out to be surprisingly difficult going by the route up from the south that most of us tried. The granite was somewhere between solid rock and sand, meaning it would often decompose in your hands. Pat was on her way down while Jonathan and I were struggling a bit over our heads. She didn't stick around for fear of watching us kill ourselves. Luckily, we didn't. Made the summit in 6hrs, had a nice lunch atop and checked out an old Andy Smatko register. It had half a dozen entries in 50 years.

Others at our trailhead climbed other peaks: Tommey, Tom B, Michael G and Luke climbed Prater. Luke, Michael C and JD climbed Split. Eric traversed from Prater to Bolton Brown, then climbed Twin and still got back 15min before me. Ouch. No significant weather encountered today at the Red Lake Trail, but others at North Lake and elsewhere reported some rain. All good.

Tomorrow we're heading to Taboose Pass to climb Mt. Ickes, another 9,100-foot day. Should be another long one...
User Avatar
Bob Burd
Forum Moderator
 
Posts: 4221
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2001 10:42 pm
Location: San Jose, California, United States
Thanked: 535 times in 280 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby WyomingSummits » Wed Aug 21, 2013 3:24 am

Ze wrote:Was nice meeting a bunch of really crazy, but nice people. Did technically "easy" ascents of Matterhorn and Morgan / Twelve Flags the first 2 days. Had to pass on the 3rd day as I blew up my ankle on the 2nd day descent as a large slab gave out under me. Scrambling down the rest of the way on one good leg was interesting. Thanks to those who hung out me as I hobbled down from Francis Lake!

That sucks man. I do a lot of solo trips that are 20+ miles and the boulder fields freak me out for that very reason......you just never know when a boulder that looks solid will collapse and suck your leg into a hell hole. It's a long lonely slog out on one leg. Glad you had company! Not that they can help a lot, but it sure boosts morale! :)
User Avatar
WyomingSummits

 
Posts: 633
Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:03 am
Location: Wyoming, United States
Thanked: 109 times in 83 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby Vitaliy M. » Wed Aug 21, 2013 6:46 am

Damn Bob, seems like you guys been doing a bunch of long days on this challenge...all the best to your bodies! Keep those machines going and get some good nutrition and rest!
User Avatar
Vitaliy M.

 
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:23 am
Location: San Francisco, California, United States
Thanked: 287 times in 215 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby Bob Burd » Thu Aug 22, 2013 3:32 am

Day 6 - Mt. Ickes
Mt. Ickes, 12,900ft, is located northwest of Pinchot Pass about 4 miles west of the Sierra Crest. We were down to a core group of eight folks at the Taboose Pass TH for a 4am start. The previous day's weather had not dissipated overnight. In a first ever for the Challenge we had rain beore sunrise that had us digging in packs for rain jackets and pack covers. Wiser folks might have thought better of continuing, but this was not a group of wise men. For our perseverance we were treated to an incredible rainbow over Taboose Pass just before we arrived there around 7pm. It was on and off wind, rain and sunshine all day, making for some spectacular skies and scenery. Rain gear was also on and off all day. Eric was already coming down from the summit when Pat, Sean, Jonathan and I were about 30 minutes away. It appears that in addition to being super-fast, Eric also possesses some super powers. While four of us were bundled against the weather, Eric was casually talking to us in a tshirt and shorts. No one has yet observed whether Eric has any sort of rain gear at all. He appears to be either impervious to weather hazards, or simply outruns any rain/hail that might threaten. He also seems to have built-in night vision. Though we started in serious darkness (the moon was behind the clouds or mountains all the while, and no stars were out), he took off in the lead without need for a headlamp and left us mortals in the dust - this on the Taboose Pass Trail which is notoriously rocky.

In all, five made it to Ickes and back (Eric the fastest at just over 8.5hrs, myself the slowest at just under 12hrs. Michael G went to Striped, Chris visited Cardinal, and Tommey was off to tag Pinchot and Wynne (he wasn't yet back when most of us left the TH in the afternoon).

After Day 5, Pat was the leader in the Yellow (overall fastest) and Green (over 50yrs) jerseys. Eric was the leader in the King of the Mountain with a total of 14 summits as well as the White jersey (under 25yrs). By summiting only one peak today, Eric picked up more than two hours on Pat to take the Yellow Jersey after Day 6.

Tomorrow we're heading up the Baxter Pass Trail, the first time it's been used during the Challenge (the Bighorn closure prevented it being useful in the past). We'll be tackling one or more of a variety of summits including Black, Diamond, Diamond North, Baxter and Acrodectes. Should be easier than today's hike...
User Avatar
Bob Burd
Forum Moderator
 
Posts: 4221
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2001 10:42 pm
Location: San Jose, California, United States
Thanked: 535 times in 280 posts

Re: 2013 Sierra Challenge Aug 16-25

Postby mrchad9 » Thu Aug 22, 2013 3:40 am

Well done! No small accomplishment!
User Avatar
mrchad9

 
Posts: 4291
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 12:01 am
Location: San Ramon, California, United States
Thanked: 1232 times in 837 posts

PreviousNext

Return to California

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: rpastel and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.