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Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

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Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby bcfinucane » Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:19 pm

Has anyone climbed in the Cordillera Blanca or Huascaran National Park in the last year? I've heard rumors that the Peruvian authorities have begun enforcing regulations that require all climbers to be accompanied by a licensed guide. Can anyone confirm or deny?

Thanks
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby Monster5 » Tue Mar 25, 2014 2:16 pm

Either guided or a "professional" climber last summer, but it wasn't strictly enforced. One park ranger made a big deal of scanning our AAC cards and I have a feeling a REI membership card would have worked too.

After a couple deaths on a peak, the rescue guys called BS on our AAC cards and said it wasn't acceptable, so we told him we were doing easier peaks. I heard several well-practiced rants from locals about climbing without guides, so I wouldn't be terribly surprised if the requirement becomes more stringent.

We tried the guide thing in Ecuador earlier this year and I won't be trying that again anytime soon.
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby sharperblue » Tue Mar 25, 2014 7:14 pm

Yes; as mentioned, authorities are being much more diligent about seeing AAC cards and letters (or other equal) at the busiest quebrada entries; the others are as easy as ever. Even with these, they are a bit more persnickety but just hold your ground, be friendly, and you'll have no problems. Also, don't show up at the trailhead at 10am....
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby Matt Lemke » Wed Mar 26, 2014 5:29 am

sharperblue wrote:Also, don't show up at the trailhead at 10am....


Why is that? The first day is spent approaching anyway (I assume you are referring to the trailhead for the Santa Cruz Valley?)
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby sharperblue » Wed Mar 26, 2014 4:17 pm

Matt Lemke wrote:
sharperblue wrote:Also, don't show up at the trailhead at 10am....


Why is that? The first day is spent approaching anyway (I assume you are referring to the trailhead for the Santa Cruz Valley?)


Well i suppose so - depending on what you're heading for. Late morning is rush hour for the big guided groups, and so highest level of scrutiny/hassle. I just think you'd be better off being the early bird when dealing with any overly enthusiastic gate keepers, and yes, I was referring to the SC trailhead
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby Brian C » Thu Mar 27, 2014 12:40 pm

We had the exact same experience as Monster5 this last year.
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby Cissa » Thu Mar 27, 2014 2:01 pm

There was no one in the guarding post when I entered Ishinca valley last year. When I went for Arteson I entered via Vaqueria and at the post, when you sign the paper, I could have easily said I was doing the trek and not climbing. Same goes for the post on Llanganuco valley, especially if you enter via colectivo - no one stoped us and we could have gotten off anywhere in the valley without them even know we were there.

From what I know the only thing that changed from last year is that the permit fee is now valid for only 21 days instead of 30.
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby bcfinucane » Thu Mar 27, 2014 2:31 pm

Many thanks for all the info. Does anyone know if there are similar regulations being enforced for the Cordillera Huayhuash?
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby I man » Thu Mar 27, 2014 3:49 pm

The permit dates were not an issue for us and we were able to enter Santa Cruz again after ourdpermit had technically expired.
I posted a more detailed response in a different thread of the same title.

I would highly doubt there are any access issues in the Huayhuash. I also expect that climbers will be free to climb for years to come in Peru. I have many objectives in mind there. It would be nothing short of a tragedy if one of the greatest places on Earth to climb became off limits.

As has been stated, there are some ways to get creative if yiu run into an overzealous guard.
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby sharperblue » Thu Mar 27, 2014 6:53 pm

bcfinucane wrote:Many thanks for all the info. Does anyone know if there are similar regulations being enforced for the Cordillera Huayhuash?


No restrictions for the Huayhuash. However, you are expected to play the game and offer a few bucks (10sol) at each base area you happen to camp at or pass through as a token to both the people who maintain the trails and to help out in a very poor area - just do it. Some of these, for example, last bus stop at Pocpa and at the Laguna BC, actually have a printed ticket receipt and you may be expected to purchase them on the bus en route.
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