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Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

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Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby bcfinucane » Tue Mar 25, 2014 5:34 pm

Has anyone climbed in the Cordillera Blanca or Huascaran National Park in the last year? I've heard rumors that the Peruvian authorities have begun enforcing regulations that require all climbers to be accompanied by a licensed guide. Can anyone confirm or deny?


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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby I man » Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:39 pm

This is a hot topic of discussion for sure. We spent a month in the Park last July and were very concerned about this going in as I would rather climb somewhere else if such absurd nonsense were to take place.
The general wisdom is that if you 1) seem competent 2) show membership in an alpine club (we showed our AAC cards) and 3) get the right guard that you will be fine.

As a team of 3 (2 Americans and 1 Aussie with a counterfeit AAC card) were able to gain entrance to the park, unassisted, at 3 separate times at 2 different gates. We did have Chris Benway from cafe Andino buy our initial permits with us though.
The gates used were Cashapampa (Alpamayo/Artesonraju) and Musho (Huascaran).

The CB is a truly incredible place with a high concentration of alpine climbing on big mountains. I have many, many more trips to the area in mind. I hope for the sake of climbers everywhere that we are are continued to be allowed to seek out challenges in Peru.
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby Jesus Malverde » Fri Mar 28, 2014 12:10 am

I man wrote: and 1 Aussie with a counterfeit AAC card)

Absolutely love the image. Hilarious..Thanks for posting. :)
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby Cissa » Sat May 31, 2014 12:01 am

An update: yes, the main control points in the park are more strict this year, meaning Llanganuco and Cashapampa (Santa Cruz). A week ago two friends going to Pisco without a guide had a hard time passing through and had to sign a hand written statement of responsibility. Someone I know and who´s a friend of te park director actually called him up and he said there´s no way we (me and may partner) would be getting in without a guide.

On the other hand, there are ways around it though, and on the less frequented valleys there seems to be no problem. Also, I know of unguided groups who got in without a problem. It may be a bit of a gamble but I do have the impression that indeed this year the regulations is being a bit more reinforced than last year.
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby rgg » Sun Jun 01, 2014 9:53 am

As long as it's not too difficult for climbers with enough experience to get a permit to head into the mountains without a guide, I don't really mind. I like to think that having to get a permit and then the process of checking it at the control points helps to keep inexperienced people out of trouble.

But should it ever become mandatory for everyone to hire a guide when climbing anything interesting, as in Ecuador, I won't come back. And that would be a pity, for I've already got plans for next year.
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Re: Cordillera Blanca- New Regulations

Postby bcfinucane » Fri Jun 06, 2014 3:47 pm

Thanks to everyone for the information.

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