I used American Alpine Institute. Frankly, I don't use anything else these days. They were absolutely first class. I made some great friends (both guides and clients) on that trip that I still climb with 6 years later. I found them to be humble, patient, like able, and extremely qualified, both as climbers and leaders. I think the owner, Dunham does a great job with that outfit and his Denali trips are certainly a highlight...

And just remember, on Denali, they don't carry your shit. They cook the meals, but you do the dishes. They make decisions on the weather, as they should --- especially if you're not from Alaska. But other than that, you'll be climbing the mountain as if you would normally. I enjoyed my rope mates and thought the guides were great too. I still look back on that trip with extreme fondness and would do it again someday for sure... Although the Rib looks too good to pass up... .

Sorry if it sounds like an advertisement, but they have been very good to me over the years. Can't say enough...

Catamount,
Speak of the devil, AAI just posted this route profile today on the West Buttress:
http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2014/03 ... enali.html
Have a great time on Denali..Yer gonna love it.

catamount,
FWIW,
My Denali mountain guide service recommendations:
1. Mountain Trip/ Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS)
2. American Alpine Institute
Note, that Mountain Trip and AMS often share mountain guides between companies (not on the mountain, but as employees for the season).
You can't go wrong with AAI either.
You may get a better deal with Mountain Trip as the last time I checked (it's been a couple years), Mountain Trip included two nights stay in Anchorage and transportation to/from Talkeetna in their trip price (this may have changed). If I recall correctly this was several hundred dollars in savings. Some of the other authorized guide services start and end their trips in Talkeetna from what I remember.
What ever way you go and summit or no summit, it's still a trip of a lifetime.
Best,
JM

I have used Mountain Trip on four of the seven summits and have had great experiences. Give Todd a call and chat about what makes them different. Truly a small company feel that I did not het with other companies. Plus, their crew on Denali is top notch. Scott

Catamount,
Congrats. Just making the mental commitment is often the biggest step..oh yea, now you gotta climb the thing.
You going with integrated gaiter boots or something like a 40-below overboot?
If don't already have some 40-below overboots and you need a pair of overboots for your trip, PM me and we can talk further.
Best,
JM

Catamount wrote:I have Koflach Arctis Expe double boots so I figure I will be going with 40-below overboots. So much stuff to get together, upgrade or borrow between now and then. Having a lot of time to plan is certainly an advantage. It's a good kind of stress.

In June you could get away with insulated supergaitors over your Arctis boots, which I personally prefer over full on over boots. Of course your guide service may mandate overboots.

My biggest concern about guide services is with regards to their ratio of guides to clients and the risk of turning a healthy rope team around because 1 person has a headache. I've seen this first hand and have also heard numerous stories from friends.

One of the guys on my Denali trip attempted it previously with a guide service. They were at high camp (17.2K) waiting out several days of poor weather. When the weather finally broke, the guides informed the entire group that they were out of time and had to go down. Nobody was even sick in that instance. They still had plenty of food/fuel and they were forced to head down because of the guide's schedule. There's was nearly a mutiny.

I would definitely ask how they make those decisions before you hire a guide service. Is there a set time to summit? Are there any extra guides to help sick members or do they turn an entire rope team back when 1 person (who you don't even know) gets sick.

Obviously, if someone is seriously ill their safety comes before a summit bid. I'm not suggesting otherwise. I'm talking about someone with mild symptoms like headache or nausea that can be walked down by a spare guide. When you pick your own teammates and climb unguided, you accept the risk that you have to help each other if anyone becomes sick. You have a strong incentive to chose capable partners. However, when you pay $7K for a guided trip and you're climbing with a bunch of strangers, you hope the guides can shoulder the burden for those things so somebody who perhaps doesn't even belong on the mountain doesn't ruin your chance to summit.

I thought I'd chime in with a couple of thoughts.

Firstly, I'd be a bit hesitant about running insulated supergaiters with Arctis Ex boots, even in June. Chances are good that you'd be fine, but you can certainly get some super cold days high on Denali, even in July... It would be a bummer to regret having not brought overboots.

Secondly, one thing to consider with teams of 6 climbers and 2 guides is what will happen, if someone bonks and cannot go to high camp? We've seen this happen time and again, and having only one guide on summit day can really limit your options.

For what it's worth-- there is one company that offers scheduled trips of 6 climbers and 3 guides. Thanks for the shout out in this thread Scott!