Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

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drManhattan

 
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Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by drManhattan » Mon Dec 29, 2014 4:00 am

So I had to cancel my Aconcagua plans (long story) but I now find myself living in Colombia for a bit and have the next 3 weeks free.

Looking to hit up Ecuador and climb these 3 mountains. I have done zero cardio for about 3 months but on the plus side I have been living around 1500-2000m for that time (Mexico City and Medellin). I am wanting to do the first two climbs and then see how I feel for Chimbo as I dont know if I am ready for it.

I am looking for some suggestions on an itinerary of around 12 days for these 3 mountains. I am aware the the refuges are closed also?

Day 1: Quito
Day 2: Quito
Day 3: Acclimatisation Hike (Where?)
Day 4: Illiniza Norte
Day 5: Rest in Quito
Day 6: Cotopaxi
Day 7: Rest in Quito
Day 8: Rest in Quito
Day 9: Chimborazo
Day 10: Quito

Thoughts and suggestions welcome.

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Woodie Hopper

 
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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by Woodie Hopper » Mon Dec 29, 2014 6:16 pm

Rucu Pichincha is an easy hike for acclimitization on the outskirts of Quito. You basically get a ride to the gondola (TeleferiQo sp?) and hike to the top with a little easy scrambling toward the end. If you have a guide and/or your own transportation, Guagua Pichincha is more interesting with more opportunities to explore and walk around all day at moderate altitude. There are some other moderate peaks outside Quito that could also be used as alternatives including Fuya Fuya (~14k ft), Imbabura (~15.1k ft) and Pasochoa (~13.8k ft). HIking around Cuichocha Crater would make for a nice afternoon which is around 11k ft. All of these are here on SP. Personally I haven't climbed Illiniza Norte, but I'm sure it would be a good peak for acclimitization, but I understand it can be a little crowded, and probably best done after tackling a smaller peak first.

Chimborazo is hard, nasty and potentially dangerous depending on conditions. I had very hard blue ice when I did it a few years ago. I liked Cotopaxi and Cayambe much more, so if you want to climb the highest peak in Ecuador and are up to it, fine. If you'd rather have a more enjoyable and interesting climb, I can personally recommend Cayambe. Antisana is also likely a nice alternative and is much less popular since there's no hut and you start by going through private property. I would check recent conditions before making a final decision. I have no idea what is going on with guides or huts currently. I'm sure there are others on SP who might be able to help you in this regard.

Woodie

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Luciano136

 
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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by Luciano136 » Mon Dec 29, 2014 7:51 pm

We hiked the crater as suggested by Woodie. Also did Fuya Fuya and Illiniza Norte. We were ready for Cotopaxi but unfortunately the weather turned for the worst; didn't go much beyond the hut. Illiniza Norte is a cool peak with some very enjoyable class 3 near the summit; it has a decent amount of exposure so getting off route could be sketchy. We had a guide, so all we had to do was climb, which made it a blast. Some people rope up but we didn't; not necessary if you have experience with class 3 scrambles.

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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by drManhattan » Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:56 pm

Very interesting guys thanks,

Woody Chimbo sounds rough! On what would be easily the hardest climb I have done combined with the smallest amount of pre-climb training I might just have to pass up on Chimbo and make Cotopaxi the final climb.

I will look to replace Chimbo with another smaller one before Cotopaxi and add in Rucu Pichincha or Pasochoa for my acclimatisation hike.

Will return with my thoughts in a few weeks!

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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by sstratta » Tue Dec 30, 2014 4:11 pm

You'll most likely want two days for Cotopaxi and Chimbo...most people climb these peaks by hiking up to the hut the first day and then summiting the next day. It doesn't take all day to hike up to the huts, but not sure I'd count it as a "rest day". Conditions on Chimbo can vary a lot, so if you really want to climb it I'd ask around when you're down there about the current conditions. For me it was an incredible climb (I did it after climbing Illinizas Norte and Cotopaxi as well) but it was more challenging than the others.

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drManhattan

 
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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by drManhattan » Wed Dec 31, 2014 2:28 am

sstratta wrote:You'll most likely want two days for Cotopaxi and Chimbo...most people climb these peaks by hiking up to the hut the first day and then summiting the next day. It doesn't take all day to hike up to the huts, but not sure I'd count it as a "rest day". Conditions on Chimbo can vary a lot, so if you really want to climb it I'd ask around when you're down there about the current conditions. For me it was an incredible climb (I did it after climbing Illinizas Norte and Cotopaxi as well) but it was more challenging than the others.


Hi Sstratta my information is that all the huts are closed so you have to start from the car park anyway.

I have toned down my original plans and I am just going to do this from Jan 11 over about 7 days:

Pasochoa
Rumiñahui
Cotopaxi

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Monster5

 
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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by Monster5 » Wed Dec 31, 2014 10:41 pm

I'd recommend Cayambe. Fits between Ruminahui and Coto in a 7 day schedule rather nicely.

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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by ScottyP » Thu Jan 08, 2015 2:51 am

Just back from Fuya Fuya, Imbabura, Cayambe and Chimbo in 8 days. Too short of a time...

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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by davidstein » Tue Feb 17, 2015 2:10 am

Hello,
I´m planing to stay 1 month in Ecuador to climb up a lot of mountains, also Cayambe, Antizana/Cotopaxi, Ilinizas and some more.
At the moment I´m living in Bogotá and doing some tours in the high mountains of colombia.
I´ll travel to Ecuador in June and I´m looking for a person who´s interested in joining this trip!

Greetings David

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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by drManhattan » Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:00 am

Hey sorry for the late reply, I had to postpone my trip but I am leaving again in 3 days.

Decided to do

Pasochoa
Guagua
Illiniza Norte
Cayambe
Cotopaxi

The refugios are back open so that is great, I had an option to do Chimbo but I dont think I am in good enough condition. Will give details in a couple of weeks.

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drManhattan

 
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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by drManhattan » Thu Mar 12, 2015 2:57 am

Had a great time. The upgraded Refugios are great, but they need to fix the roof on the Cotopaxi one, the wind whistles like hell. Weather was fine right up until Cotopaxi where it just unleashed (still summitted but it was brutal..)

Anyone has questions let me know!

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rgg
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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by rgg » Thu Mar 12, 2015 3:59 am

Does this means we're going to get a detailed trip report soon?

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andre hangaard

 
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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by andre hangaard » Tue Mar 17, 2015 2:24 pm

Are you still forced to climb with an ecuadorian guide or has this restriction been lifted?

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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by drManhattan » Fri Mar 20, 2015 4:36 pm

Yes you still need a guide, I don't think it is something that will ever change unfortunately.

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Re: Illiniza Norte, Cotopaxi and Chimbo

by sbrown » Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:00 am

how were the conditions on Chimbo? I've heard the normal route is off and they are taking an alternate route.

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