now now...let's not be rude. They asked if it could be done, knew it would be rough, got beaten up a bit more than expected, but succeeded. It's a fun climb on a cool peak; I'd be interested in hearing more

sharperblue wrote:They asked if it could be done, knew it would be rough, got beaten up a bit more than expected, but succeeded.

I wasn't on the OP's team. So we still don't know how it went for them.

sharperblue wrote:It's a fun climb on a cool peak; I'd be interested in hearing more

I'll certainly be posting a story here on SP about it. I couldn't get any photos on the face itself due to being in a white out and such, but I did capture pretty much everything outside of that.

sharperblue wrote:now now...let's not be rude. They asked if it could be done, knew it would be rough, got beaten up a bit more than expected, but succeeded. It's a fun climb on a cool peak; I'd be interested in hearing more

My bad! Of course you have to admit that Deathzone-whatever was rude in calling the other guy (sarcastic-somebody-or-another) a douche bag.

Buz Groshong wrote:Of course you have to admit that Deathzone-whatever was rude in calling the other guy (sarcastic-somebody-or-another) a douche bag.

please. i've been legitimately called way worse than that.

bscott wrote:

Buz Groshong wrote:Of course you have to admit that Deathzone-whatever was rude in calling the other guy (sarcastic-somebody-or-another) a douche bag.

please. i've been legitimately called way worse than that.

Wrong answer! It's "I've been called worse by better people than you!"

Buz Groshong wrote:

bscott wrote:

Buz Groshong wrote:Of course you have to admit that Deathzone-whatever was rude in calling the other guy (sarcastic-somebody-or-another) a douche bag.

please. i've been legitimately called way worse than that.

Wrong answer! It's "I've been called worse by better people than you!"

i have no idea if they were better people. i've associated with some pretty shifty people from time to time.

Summit was aborted at 3 AM the morning of our summit bid. It had snowed all day the day before and that night. Storm broke at around 3-4 AM the morning that my partner and I were going to summit. Runnels were likely packed with avalanche prone snow and difficult anchor building conditions. Could actually hear frequent avalanches. The tight itinerary didn't allow for us to wait a day or two for the runnels to clear. Had to bolt. Planning a repeat trip next July. Itinerary will be 14 days rather than 10 to allow additional altitude acclimation and a buffer for weather. I was experiencing some AMS symptoms, which could be avoided with a 14 day itinerary. Diamox likely helped, but hard to say? Because I live at 300 meters I will take diamox again next year even with the 14 day itinerary. If you're doing one of these 21 day itinerary expeditions and live above 5000 feet, I'm sure it's not needed. I still think only a D-bag would blanketly diss the use of diamox. Rapid ascent of elevation is a medical indication for diamox.

I

I'm sure it's not needed. I still think only a D-bag would blanketly diss the use of diamox

I think there has only ever been one D-bag on this thread.

deathzonescience wrote:Rapid ascent of elevation is a medical indication for diamox.

close.

deathzonescience wrote:Alpamayo rapid ascent expedition is planned for mid July. This is a private expedition with myself and a very experienced Peruvian Andes climber. Thoughts please regarding limited acclimatization time and other potential pit falls of this itinerary?

1. USA - Lima
2. Lima - Huaraz
3. Huaraz to Corral Camp
4. Corral Camp to base camp
5. base camp to moraine camp
6. moraine camp to col camp
7. col camp to summit to base camp
8. base camp to Huaraz
9. Huaraz to Lima.

Gearing up for Alpamayo ascent round two. Last year's failed summit attempt was due to a storm cell spitting snow and ice while camping in the Moraine, which halted all summit attempts for the following two days afterwards. The tight itinerary did not allow extra days for weather deterioration or time for acclimation causing AMS symptoms. New Itinerary is listed below:

July 20 M OKC to Lima,
July 21 T Lima to Huaraz by bus arriving at night
July 22 W Huaraz acclimatization day
July 23 R Huaraz to intermediate camp
July 24 F Intermediate camp to base camp
July 25 S base camp to moraine camp to base camp (if positive for AMS)
July 26 S base camp to moraine camp
July 27 M moraine camp to col camp
July 28 T col camp to summit to base camp
July 29 W extra weather day
July 30 R extra weather day
July 31 F base camp to Huaraz to overnight bus to Lima
Aug 01 S arrive in Lima in AM fly home to OKC that night
Aug 02 S Arrive in OKC in the AM