Hi guys, i am thinking to go to pamir this summer with a friend, our goal is to climb Korjenevskaya. I'm obviously having some trouble.

at first i wanted to do everything by myself (even walk in somehow, but my friend don't have the time for that adventure and i don't think i will be able to find someone who wants to do the same approach) (btw, if you have any info about this trail, PLEASE let me know!). .. but then..

Problem is that i can't find how to book the helicopter without passing through an agency, so i think that at the and we are going in that direction. Can anyone give me some advice about which company i should use? Actually i only want the helicopter and very very very basic services at base camp (don't want hotels, taxi, tents, kitchen, guides, ropes, timetables and stuff like that.). I already asked one company but they say that they stopped to organize expeditions to korjenevskaya due to problems with helicopters and other reasons. (i'm a bit worried about that). Please don't tell me to go to pik lenin instead . Any kind of advice is very helpful.


and.. Do you think it might be possible to find climbing partners in base camp? i was thinking to stay 2 weeks more after my friend leaves.. but don't want to organize that in advance since i don't know how am i going to feel after those three weeks.






Thanks for any info.


M

Hi Matteo,

a friend of mine also tried to organize a tour to Korjenevskaya through an agency. They also had to cancel their trip due to issues with the base camp set-up.

Why not try Pobeda with an agency that provides base camp services only like Ak-Sai?

BR

S

Hi bserk.. i think Pobeda is a little bit too much as a first 7000 for me..
i hear it's often unclimbable and i don't have real experience with Asian mountaineering to judge it properly, and i don't really want to climb with a guide. And i have to say that the pamir-hindu kush-karakorum area is very attractive to me.. And, more important, i might need to buy more techical equipment since i read that is an extremely cold mountain!

do you know what were the issues they had in details?

Yury wrote:

bserk wrote:a friend of mine also tried to organize a tour to Korjenevskaya through an agency. They also had to cancel their trip due to issues with the base camp set-up.S

I am not sure I understand this.
Isn't the same base camp used for both Kommunism and Korzhenevskaya?

Peak Lenina is the easiest and cheapest 7000 m option because you can drive to a base camp.
At the same time Pobeda, Kommunism and Korzhenevskaya require a helicopter ride.

Pobeda is the hardest one. In case of a bad weather, there is a chance that nobody is able to reach its summit that year.

Yep, they share BC and Pobeda is said to be the hardest one.

@Matteo: Maybe you should go for Lenin (I'll be there this summer )

Matteo,

Don't go to Pik Lenin

I don't know about specific helicopter issues with Korz & Comm but I do know they had a bad food poisoning / e-coli outbreak at the BC a year or two ago. I think business has been down there for a few years, for various reasons.

If you want to go to Tajikistan, you could go to Pik Karl Marx (6720m), down near the Afghan border. It's quite high, there are no real permit costs and an agency in Dushanbe can organise it for you. The main cost is a long jeep ride down there. You can hire horses to carry gear in from the road, or do it yourself in a couple of days. The normal route from the southwest is not too difficult, but harder than Lenin and far, far fewer people.

Damien Gildea wrote:Matteo,

Don't go to Pik Lenin

I don't know about specific helicopter issues with Korz & Comm but I do know they had a bad food poisoning / e-coli outbreak at the BC a year or two ago. I think business has been down there for a few years, for various reasons.

If you want to go to Tajikistan, you could go to Pik Karl Marx (6720m), down near the Afghan border. It's quite high, there are no real permit costs and an agency in Dushanbe can organise it for you. The main cost is a long jeep ride down there. You can hire horses to carry gear in from the road, or do it yourself in a couple of days. The normal route from the southwest is not too difficult, but harder than Lenin and far, far fewer people.

Thank you Damien. Don't worry, i'm not going to pik Lenin for sure!

We already have made research about Pik karl Marx in the last few weeks. I read anything i could find about the area and it looks really interesting and i quite like the idea, and also my friends.
Now our latest idea is going to explore the Buni Zom area of the hindu kush, which is not even that far from karl marx but is in northern pakistan. There are flight to chitral now so my friends can save time for the approach (not me for sure.. i have time and want to enjoy every kilometer..). I already sent many email and have a good idea about how to organize something there.. but soon i will also make a plan for Karl Marx area in case something prevent us to go in Pakistan. Have you been to Karl Marx?

matteo_b wrote:...but soon i will also make a plan for Karl Marx area in case something prevent us to go in Pakistan. Have you been to Karl Marx?

No, but I looked into it a few years ago as a possible addition to my Lenin trip. I think it was maybe around USD$1000 per person for the long jeep ride from Dushanbe to the roadhead, via Khorog? But there were no other costs.

Be careful in Afghanistan... http://www.abc.net.au/news/2016-04-19/a ... an/7335510

1000$ USD per person for a jeep ride seems a lot.. do you mean 100$?

No. It's a very long ride

urgh.. 1000$ per person! I didn't know in asia was possible to find something that expensive. We can almost buy our own car! ahaha.

thanks for everybody help. Plans have change and in three weeks i'll be going to karakoram. I'll save those good info for next year!


Thank you