Fortmental, those slabs are solid granite, about as far from choss as you can imagine. Picture Whitehorse ledge, only with lichen and moss. Footing is tricky and pro is rare, but the pro is solid where available.
You are right, however, that using a static rope on lead is tantamount to suicide.
Use a dynamic rope if you're going to lead climb. Whenever you're roped up, at least one of you needs to be anchored to something solid. Anchor-building is a bit of an art, probably not something you want to try for the first time when you're a hundred feet up a slab. Likewise, placing pro is surprisingly slow and nerve-wracking until you get very good at it. For now, consider bypassing tough sections using the old vegetation gambit. But if you get a chance to practice first and/or want to bring some pro along just to test whether it would hold at all in the actual cracks you encounter, see below.
Sometimes the opportunities for pro are just plain infrequent, and you have to choose between a route that keeps you near possible pro and a route that's easier to climb.
I agree that stoppers are unlikely to be very useful in the types of cracks you're most likely to find on those slabs. I'd experiment with the following:
Slings - for trees. Rig with long extenders to your quickdraws so the rope doesn't stay too close to the sides of the slide (where it could get caught on branches)
Tricams - work over a wider range of crack sizes than stoppers. Even in slightly flaring cracks you can often get a good placement on a rugosity. One of these stopped a very long slide when my partner stepped on a wet spot on Whitehorse.
Cams - the closest you can get to a piece of pro that you can be sure will work with the cracks you find - as long as you have the right size. There's a recently-introduced version that elongates down to an extremely narrow shape when open, giving you a much larger useful size range - why can't I remember what they're called? [edit. Consider that last suggestion withdrawn. See rhyang's post below.]
Last edited by nartreb
on Fri May 28, 2010 4:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.