Wastral wrote:nartreb wrote:I've never done a crevasse rescue in the field, but with pulleys in general, a larger-diameter pulley is WAY more effective than a small one.
Pulley diameter has little to nothing to do with efficiency as long as the rope/cable in question can bend the radius of the pulley. The larger pulley you used I am sure had a bearing at its center and for this reason was larger. It is the bearing that makes all the difference.
The Chief wrote:... neither the current AMGA nor the UIAGM/IFMGA Advanced Alpine Guide Certification process covers in-depth one to one (or as you suggest a 2 Man Rope Team) scenario. All CR instruction/Cert covers a "group" (min of 3) on a rope. They do this in order to promote the safety in numbers protocol when travelling in this type of enironment. Most Guide Services here in the US follow this protocol in general but do have rare exceptions to this"Safety" protocol.
Our policy at the service I am employed with for this type Alpine trip requires a min of 2 Clients to 1 Guide on any outting that may encounter crevasse fields. Again, in order to follow the Safety in numbers protocol. If the boss ok's a 1-1, he strictly requires a pre-req of the client to have previous Advanced Crevasse Rescue Training Cert and then he himself has the client demo their knowledge in their ability to set-up process properly and efficiently prior to considering the client for such a trip. In most cases, he himself will lead the trip.
The Chief wrote:And may I ask, why are you wearing a helmet?
The Chief wrote:
Liability and Insurance.
It has absolutely nothing to do with walking on a glacier perse. Has to do with the entire evolution of the climb in a known hazardous Alpine environment.I know helmet use is individual choice, but at least make the decision based on risk factors
It's a fad to wear a helmet these days. Up until some six or so years ago, you never saw anyone wearing a helmet on a sport or trad crag... never.
I have whipped hundreds of times on sport climbs in the past four decades and have never worn a helmet nor ever impacted my head in the process of doing so.
logsden wrote:...The old "Mini-" was too heavy and bulky but the Micro- crossed the threshold of what I consider light enough to toss in, considering its benefits..."speed of setup" being one of those.
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