Hi folks,

long time lurker but signed up today seeking feedback on a scenario that some friends and I can't find the best solution too. Please keep the flame throwers on low heat if possible. We're just trying soak up some knowledge from the more seasoned climbers here on SP.

The hypothetical scenario: a team of 2 is climbing a relatively easy alpine route where the beta calls for one, 60m rope. The climb is a walk off so this party is not carrying a trail line/cord for full 60m raps. (could be their first mistake, but remember, this is hypothetical)

Along the climb, they reach a 50m couloir of ice (could be a scenario with a 50m rock pitch, doesn't really matter). Not wanting to solo or climb with a running belay, they build a bomber anchor with some screws to belay off, which the 2nd secures into. The leader ties in to the single rope and climbs up, placing pro along the route. The leader runs out the pitch (50m above the belay). As he builds a top anchor and secures into it, a rock fall ends up knocking the 2nd unconscious (they should have tried to belay in a protected position but didn't).

If the leader was carrying a piece of cord for full length raps, he could secure the cord to an anchor, rap on the cord while remaining tied in to the lead rope, and unclip protection as he descended, taking up and tying off the slack in the lead rope at each piece of pro which would only allow him to take a leader fall to the next piece of pro, should the cord rappel fail. But in this scenario, he doesn't have that cord.

The question is - if the leader doesn't posses the technical ability to down climb the route and doesn't have enough rope/cord to rap to the original belay position, what is the best way to reach the unconscious 2nd?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Anchor the rope and down prusik it.

ExcitableBoy wrote:Anchor the rope and down prusik it.

That is what I was thinking but wasn't sure if there were any ninja tricks I didn't know of. KISS rules again.

Thanks EB. Your posts have been a source of valuable info for years that I have lurked here.

ExcitableBoy wrote:Anchor the rope and down prusik it.

Why down prusik? Just rap.

norco17 wrote:

ExcitableBoy wrote:Anchor the rope and down prusik it.

Why down prusik? Just rap.

You could rap, it'd be quicker for sure.

It's possible the rope may be too taut to rap down if the second is hypothetically using an assisted braking device, or was unanchored at the bottom of the slope and has fallen further down (not in this scenario but something to consider), or all the rope length is used due to the anchors at both ends, in which case prussiking may be a good way to go.

beean wrote:

norco17 wrote:

ExcitableBoy wrote:Anchor the rope and down prusik it.

Why down prusik? Just rap.

It's possible the rope may be too taut to rap down if the second is hypothetically using an assisted braking device, or was unanchored at the bottom of the slope and has fallen further down (not in this scenario but something to consider), or all the rope length is used due to the anchors at both ends, in which case prussiking may be a good way to go.

Beean - exactly.

This particular scenario was about the full rope length being utilized, with pro placed along the way (anchored at the bottom with the 2nd belaying) prior to the accident. What options does the lead have to get back down that hypothetical situation to the injured 2nd. As EB initially said, down prussik.