Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Question RE: PNW July Conditions & Partners

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Washington and Oregon. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Pacific Northwest Climbing Partners section.
 

Question RE: PNW July Conditions & Partners

Postby PellucidWombat » Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:18 pm

Hey SPers,

Good news! Liberty Ridge is in!

Conditions

I had been planning on climbing Liberty Ridge and some other routes in WA in Mid-July assuming that the late & heavy snow season would make conditions similar to last year. However, LR seems to be in condition a bit earlier. For those with experience with conditions in WA, how would you see the timeline for the following routes being good to climb, but not stupid/dangerous? (at least not more than usual :-) )

Liberty Ridge (Mt Rainier)
Ptarmigan Ridge (maybe)(Mt Rainier)
North Ridge (Mt Baker)
West Ridge (Forbidden Pk)/Torment-Forbidden Traverse
Adams Glacier (Mt Adams)

I was thinking of doing whatever of these climbs I can find partners for between July 14-27. However, if any of these are likely to be in bad shape by then (for THIS year), I'd like to know as I might adjust the ordering or head up earlier to just do a main objective.

Partners

So I'm wary just meeting up with someone for these climbs without a prior climbing history together, but I'll try it out as my prospective partners either cannot come now or cannot commit to any particular part of the trip.

Does anyone have any interest in meeting up to do any of these climbs? If so, e-mail or PM me.

I will be flying in & out of Seattle and will rent a car for the duration unless someone wants to join me for a longer leg of the trip & carpool (and I'll just rent a car for whenever that isn't convenient). I'm fine leading all pitches on the above climbs, but I'd want my partner to be technically proficient in glacier travel/rescue and physically fit enough for these climbs to not be too much of a stretch.

Ideally, if someone has the time, it looks like LR & Ptarmigan can be linked up nicely with a couple more days total for a trip to Rainier. 8)

Also, I would be psyched for the Price Glacier on Mt Shuksan, though for this year I'd conservatively consider myself more of a follower for the crux on that route if you need a good porter/belayer :lol:

*Edit: Incorrect reference to Mt Terror. Oops!
Last edited by PellucidWombat on Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
User Avatar
PellucidWombat

 
Posts: 1137
Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2003 6:50 pm
Location: Berkeley, California, United States
Thanked: 48 times in 34 posts

Re: Question RE: PNW July Conditions & Partners

Postby ExcitableBoy » Sun Jun 12, 2011 10:32 pm

PellucidWombat wrote:Hey SPers,

Good news! Liberty Ridge is in!

Conditions

I had been planning on climbing Liberty Ridge and some other routes in WA in Mid-July assuming that the late & heavy snow season would make conditions similar to last year. However, LR seems to be in condition a bit earlier. For those with experience with conditions in WA, how would you see the timeline for the following routes being good to climb, but not stupid/dangerous? (at least not more than usual :-) )

Liberty Ridge (Mt Rainier)
Ptarmigan Ridge (maybe)(Mt Rainier)
North Ridge (Mt Baker)
West Ridge (Mt Terror)/Terror-Forbidden Traverse
Adams Glacier (Mt Adams)

I was thinking of doing whatever of these climbs I can find partners for between July 14-27. However, if any of these are likely to be in bad shape by then (for THIS year), I'd like to know as I might adjust the ordering or head up earlier to just do a main objective.

Partners

So I'm wary just meeting up with someone for these climbs without a prior climbing history together, but I'll try it out as my prospective partners either cannot come now or cannot commit to any particular part of the trip.

Does anyone have any interest in meeting up to do any of these climbs? If so, e-mail or PM me.

I will be flying in & out of Seattle and will rent a car for the duration unless someone wants to join me for a longer leg of the trip & carpool (and I'll just rent a car for whenever that isn't convenient). I'm fine leading all pitches on the above climbs, but I'd want my partner to be technically proficient in glacier travel/rescue and physically fit enough for these climbs to not be too much of a stretch.

Ideally, if someone has the time, it looks like LR & Ptarmigan can be linked up nicely with a couple more days total for a trip to Rainier. 8)

Also, I would be psyched for the Price Glacier on Mt Shuksan, though for this year I'd conservatively consider myself more of a follower for the crux on that route if you need a good porter/belayer :lol:


Here is my take. Your timeline is gettting late in the season for Ptarmigan and Liberty Ridge, however, it is still unseasonably cool and it was a big snow year so these routes may both be reasonable still by then, but I would watch the weather and keep your ear to the ground to see what conditions are like locally.

North Ridge Baker and Adams Glacier should be in good shape. Not sure if you mean Mt Terror in the Pickets or Mt Torment as in the Torment-Forbidden Traverse. Either way, both will be in shape. For T-F traverse either bring a second tool and a few screws to protect the ice traverse or be willing to climb loose 5.9.
User Avatar
ExcitableBoy

 
Posts: 2876
Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2005 9:33 am
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Thanked: 422 times in 306 posts

Re: Question RE: PNW July Conditions & Partners

Postby PellucidWombat » Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:50 am

ExcitableBoy wrote: Not sure if you mean Mt Terror in the Pickets or Mt Torment as in the Torment-Forbidden Traverse.


Err I mean Torment. I've been spending too much time working on some Pickets maps for Steph Abegg :lol:

ExcitableBoy wrote:Either way, both will be in shape. For T-F traverse either bring a second tool and a few screws to protect the ice traverse or be willing to climb loose 5.9.


Good to hear! And good to know about the ice traverse. Steph did the scramble to avoid ice and presented the scramble as not being too bad, but then again she's much stronger on rock than on ice (and they hadn't brought screws or tools). Considering loose 5.9, that ice traverse looks like a better time out, so I'll opt for that if I find a partner for the traverse.
User Avatar
PellucidWombat

 
Posts: 1137
Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2003 6:50 pm
Location: Berkeley, California, United States
Thanked: 48 times in 34 posts


Return to Pacific Northwest (WA, OR)

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.