Rainier Disapointment Cleaver Crampon Question

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TRR

 
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Rainier Disapointment Cleaver Crampon Question

by TRR » Thu May 06, 2010 5:46 am

Hi,
I plan on climbing Rainier this July via the Cleaver route and was wondering if steel or Aluminum crampons would be preferred?
I did the Emmons route with my Aluminums a few years ago, but feel the rock on the cleaver might warrant steel.
Do people remove there crampons for the rock section?

Any help would be appreciated.

Tim

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nickmech

 
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by nickmech » Thu May 06, 2010 6:13 am

I wear 12 point steel crampons and leave them on thru the Cleaver. The section before the Cleaver has cliffs with rockfall and ice danger so you have to move quick and no stopping. The lower section is steep with switchbacks of loose rock, snow and ice. About 12,500 ft. you top out and there is a good rest stop where the glacier continues. I wouldn't take aluminum.

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mcpherma

 
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by mcpherma » Thu May 06, 2010 5:33 pm

I agree, steel would be the way to go. It is too time consuming and exposed to make gear changes at the bottom of the Cleavor. I know this because the first time I climbed, we stopped to take off the cramps and got chastised by all the other parties all the way up the mountain. On the decent when the sun was up, I could see why.

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ExcitableBoy

 
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by ExcitableBoy » Sat May 08, 2010 2:55 pm

Last time I did the DC (in September), my partner wore aluminum crampons and kept them on the whole time above Camp Muir.The Cleaver itself was entirely rubble. I think aluminum crampons are tougher than some may realize but I personally don't like them for Rainier because the points on my Grivel Air Tech Aluminum are too short.

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triyoda

 
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by triyoda » Mon May 24, 2010 3:46 am

Use rentals if you can. :wink: As mentioned you will be walking through a lot of rubble in the pons, don't bring your good ones.

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fatdad

 
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by fatdad » Mon May 24, 2010 4:10 am

I took mine off on the Cleaver. Do what works for you, not the crowds behind you, half of which won't summit anyways.


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