CONSIGLIEREG8R wrote:finally found a pic and description of my boots. I purchased them on ebay years ago but never wore them. After my failure with Scarpa plastics, I broke them out again. They are Garmont GTX. They have worked really well in my training.

here is a pic of them.

That isn't in their current lineup so it's a little hard to tell. If you know the model name that might help. Some things you need to look for are:

1) will they work with crampons? It looks from the photo like the toe is designed to accomodate a toe bail, and the back may have a crampon ledge, but it's hard to be sure from the pic.
2) are they stiff enough to kick steps in the snow and use crampons? Do they have at least a 3/4 shank? If you can flex them (heel to toe) the answer is probably no.
3) are they insulated? Look for thinsulate or primaloft insulation. You'll be spending a couple of days in the snow and you don't want to turn around due to cold feet (literally).
3) are they waterproof? If they are Gore-Tex lined the answer is probably yes.

stiff as a teenager on Viagra. no flex they have thinsulate. The climb is the second week in August, how much snow time can I (typically) expect. I know it all depends but typically..
There is ledge on the back as well

They've had a high snow year, so probably a little more than usual. But any year will have you on snow midway through the first day, the entire second day, and half way down on the third day (if you do the three day climb). Essentially, you hit snow around 7,000ft+, and you're on it for the majority of the time, other than climbing over a rock rib or something.

So, if your feet can get wet, they're going to be wet and cold for a couple days. And if the boots are wet, keep them inside your sleeping bag at night, or you have to put on ice cubes in the morning. I climbed it my first couple times in full leather, no insulation, no GTX type boots. It wasn't bad, but the ice cube experience is a first-hand one.

And going that late in the summer, you might end up with wetter feet, rather than dryer. If it's warm, and the snow is staying softer, it's going to be sloppy. As you said, typically...

I just realized that I more or less repeated the set of criteria ExcitableBoy gave you at the beginning of the thread. If I'm not mistaken this is the boot you bought:

http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/gear-features/garmont-new-for-2002/1259.html

If so it sounds like the boot is more oriented torwards technical ice climbing than you need, but is in the right ballpark. A less technical mountaineering boot would probably have a higher cuff for more ankle support, but if the boot works for you it sounds OK otherwise. Just don't forget the gaiters to keep the snow out.

You can bring it with you and if the RMI guides don't lik it you can rent a pair of boots from them (IIRC they have Scarpa Invernos, Omegas, and maybe others in their rental shop). You will be climbing on snow and glaciers even in August, b.t.w. - you may want to read a route description for more info; presumably you'll be climbing the Disappointment Cleaver route.

Those are them. They have been great so far. If RMI doesn't like them, I will rent but I am have done some long sweaty hikes in them and no blisters or any kind of foot problems. Hopefully they will work.

I am going to start going through my stuff this weekend and see what I need to rent. I am thinking I will need to rent the sleeping bag, crampons, puffy and gaiters. I think I have ski/boarding stuff that will work for the other requirements. I have an Ice axe--bought it just because it was cool.

I have a golite pack, headlight, hats, hiking poles. Do I need Jumblo glacier glasses? I have a pair of Costas that provide good coverage. I have a ton of synthetic wool socks, wicking shirts ect.
I always wear running shorts under my hiking gear to hold downt the chaffing.

My response here would be that rental gear may work but I'd want to own most of this stuff to make sure it would work before I take it on a climb, especially if I were spending precious vacation time and money to do the climb, and if I planned to do this again. You're going to need most if not all of it for future mountaineering. A more general suggestion would be to get a copy of "Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills" and read it. It will provide a lot of advice on gear and also help you understand what the guides recommend and why, and what they are doing on the climb.

I was just on Rainier this last sunday/monday

how times change as most of the guided people were in nepal extreme evos. Some non guided in AT ski boots though too but not to many in doubles. I had la sportiva doubles and wished I took my singles.


I stopped at RMI for a burger on the way home and saw that they rent single boots. I think Mammut boots. That may be a great option too.

alpinedan wrote:I was just on Rainier this last sunday/monday

how times change as most of the guided people were in nepal extreme evos. Some non guided in AT ski boots though too but not to many in doubles. I had la sportiva doubles and wished I took my singles.

You're right. When I did Rainier about 10 years ago, it was nothing but plastics. The Nepals seem to come highly recommended. Would this be enough boot for Elbrus and Aconcagua? I have a pair of Invernos, but I assume the Nepals would be a lot more agile/comfortable, correct? Thanks.

Plastics are mostly gone from the rental fleets. Been awhile since Koflach has been well represented and easily available in the USA. Last spring when I was at Muir and Longmire, the Mammut Mamook GTX was the boot on most every client's foot. Nepals being rented? Really? I haven't noticed that this spring. But lots of the new TLT5s and other AT being used, 'cuz the skiing is still so good. Most aren't rentals.

Not that I would ever reccommned what is used in a rental fleet, for skiing or climbing.

The guides btw from what I saw were all in dbl boots..Spantiks and Baruntses or the odd Nepal Evo.

Dane1 wrote:Plastics are mostly gone from the rental fleets. Been awhile since Koflach has been well represented and easily available in the USA. Last spring when I was at Muir and Longmire, the Mammut Mamook GTX was the boot on most every client's foot. Nepals being rented? Really? I haven't noticed that this spring. But lots of the new TLT5s and other AT being used, 'cuz the skiing is still so good. Most aren't rentals.

Not that I would ever reccommned what is used in a rental fleet, for skiing or climbing.

The guides btw from what I saw were all in dbl boots..Spantiks and Baruntses or the odd Nepal Evo.

Don't think the Nepals were rented as they looked too new (must be selling a lot). Also some some Batura's. One guy had on new shiny Koflacks that were all black. I see you are the Dane from CC. I'm iceaxe23 on there


Hey jthomas, I have the older original Nepal extremes and not the new Evos. I can't answer if they would be good for Elbrus or Aconcagua but would probably say a double. I have used my nepals on Hood to Rainier in the cascades and get cold feet once I stop moving. My Nepals are comfy though. I tried a pair of Scarpa phantom lites and they were pretty warm though the fit was odd. I am probably going to get a pair of the new scarpa phantom guides though as they are a bit lighter than my nepals and the lites were pretty comfy but had a small toe box. I hear the guides fit much closer to sportiva sizing now.

alpinedan wrote:

Dane1 wrote:Plastics are mostly gone from the rental fleets. Been awhile since Koflach has been well represented and easily available in the USA. Last spring when I was at Muir and Longmire, the Mammut Mamook GTX was the boot on most every client's foot. Nepals being rented? Really? I haven't noticed that this spring. But lots of the new TLT5s and other AT being used, 'cuz the skiing is still so good. Most aren't rentals.

Not that I would ever reccommned what is used in a rental fleet, for skiing or climbing.

The guides btw from what I saw were all in dbl boots..Spantiks and Baruntses or the odd Nepal Evo.

Don't think the Nepals were rented as they looked too new (must be selling a lot). Also some some Batura's. One guy had on new shiny Koflacks that were all black. I see you are the Dane from CC. I'm iceaxe23 on there


Hey jthomas, I have the older original Nepal extremes and not the new Evos. I can't answer if they would be good for Elbrus or Aconcagua but would probably say a double. I have used my nepals on Hood to Rainier in the cascades and get cold feet once I stop moving. My Nepals are comfy though. I tried a pair of Scarpa phantom lites and they were pretty warm though the fit was odd. I am probably going to get a pair of the new scarpa phantom guides though as they are a bit lighter than my nepals and the lites were pretty comfy but had a small toe box. I hear the guides fit much closer to sportiva sizing now.

Interesting, as people have assured me that my Trango S Evos were fine for Rainier, and they are nowhere near as warm as the Nepals. I will probably stick with the Invernos, as no way could I justify $600 for the newer LS doubles.

Dane1 wrote:Plastics are mostly gone from the rental fleets. Been awhile since Koflach has been well represented and easily available in the USA. Last spring when I was at Muir and Longmire, the Mammut Mamook GTX was the boot on most every client's foot. Nepals being rented? Really? I haven't noticed that this spring. But lots of the new TLT5s and other AT being used, 'cuz the skiing is still so good. Most aren't rentals.

Not that I would ever reccommned what is used in a rental fleet, for skiing or climbing.

The guides btw from what I saw were all in dbl boots..Spantiks and Baruntses or the odd Nepal Evo.

I have Trango S Evos now, which I really like. Would the Mammut Mamooks be significantly warmer? Both appear to be synthetic GTX without insulation. Seems like both of these would be less warm than the Nepals. Now totally confused!

jthomas wrote:

Dane1 wrote:Plastics are mostly gone from the rental fleets. Been awhile since Koflach has been well represented and easily available in the USA. Last spring when I was at Muir and Longmire, the Mammut Mamook GTX was the boot on most every client's foot. Nepals being rented? Really? I haven't noticed that this spring. But lots of the new TLT5s and other AT being used, 'cuz the skiing is still so good. Most aren't rentals.

Not that I would ever reccommned what is used in a rental fleet, for skiing or climbing.

The guides btw from what I saw were all in dbl boots..Spantiks and Baruntses or the odd Nepal Evo.

I have Trango S Evos now, which I really like. Would the Mammut Mamooks be significantly warmer? Both appear to be synthetic GTX without insulation. Seems like both of these would be less warm than the Nepals. Now totally confused!

I thought the Mamooks have primaloft in them?
I have friends who have climbed hood in winter and rainier in summer with the Trango S Evos. It's all subjective to your tolerance of the cold. He said he never stopped moving or would get cold toes (I'm the same in Nepals). Late in the season I think you would be fine as long as weather was good. I once saw a guy on Mt washington (NH) with Trango S boots in January. He put the now discontinued la sportiva overboots on them with strap on crampons. It was around -20F and he said his feet were warm. I had on old sportiva Jannu's (their first single with a built in gaiter) and was warm too though on the move. Now that I'm older my toes get cold fast though.

"Interesting, as people have assured me that my Trango S Evos were fine for Rainier, and they are nowhere near as warm as the Nepals"

Ha Ha, ha It is the Internet what do you expect people to say? Yes the Tango Evo will work fine on Rainier on a perfect day mid to late summer on a good year. Bad day (or 3) and it is easy to be really uncomforatble.

I get to do Rainier a lot and get to choose my weather window accordingly as I am only an hr away from the trail head . I own Trangos and have never used them there. But I would rather have really warm feet than cold ones. Could i use the Trango? Sure...just haven't.

How warm the Trangos will be on Rainier will depend on how dry you keep them getting to Muir and how well you can dry them out at Muir ( or what ever high camp you use) . Fun boot for a quick one day trip though. Same can be said for the Batura, Trango Extreme, Nepal or any single boot really.

There is a reason many of the guides use lwt doubles until mid July on Rainier.

I see all sorts of boot/mountain comments, asking for advice. Many of them making no sense. And not just here on this forum.

Hood can be done in lwt hiking boots or even runners late in the season. Rainier in runners if you know what you are doing. On Aconcagua I've worn runners to 19K in comfort. That doesn't mean I would suggest anyone try doing it with that gear.

Climbing mtns has always been an elitist's and expensive sport. You can either pay now or pay later.

These cost a lot more than any pair of dbl boots made. The result of 24hrs out in Nov...@ 7000' in the Cascades.

Dane1 wrote:"Interesting, as people have assured me that my Trango S Evos were fine for Rainier, and they are nowhere near as warm as the Nepals"

Ha Ha, ha It is the Internet what do you expect people to say? Yes the Tango Evo will work fine on Rainier on a perfect day mid to late summer on a good year. Bad day (or 3) and it is easy to be really uncomforatble.

I get to do Rainier a lot and get to choose my weather window accordingly as I am only an hr away from the trail head . I own Trangos and have never used them there. But I would rather have really warm feet than cold ones. Could i use the Trango? Sure...just haven't.

How warm the Trangos will be on Rainier will depend on how dry you keep them getting to Muir and how well you can dry them out at Muir ( or what ever high camp you use) . Fun boot for a quick one day trip though. Same can be said for the Batura, Trango Extreme, Nepal or any single boot really.

There is a reason many of the guides use lwt doubles until mid July on Rainier.

I see all sorts of boot/mountain comments, asking for advice. Many of them making no sense. And not just here on this forum.

Hood can be done in lwt hiking boots or even runners late in the season. Rainier in runners if you know what you are doing. On Aconcagua I've worn runners to 19K in comfort. That doesn't mean I would suggest anyone try doing it with that gear.

Climbing mtns has always been an elitist's and expensive sport. You can either pay now or pay later.

These cost a lot more than any pair of dbl boots made. The result of 24hrs out in Nov...@ 7000' in the Cascades.

Yikes!! You convinced me.