Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

Rant: "Useless" Beta

Minimally moderated forum for climbing related hearsay, misinformation, and lies.
 

Postby welle » Fri May 14, 2010 5:32 pm

As CClaude said, if you climb in the Gunks a lot, you get used to the style and ratings. Lots of jugs and good feet. I'd say Horseman feels like a .4 if you don't get sketched out on the traverse, but there is also a direct variation which is a .6. Gunks is known for impressive roofs on moderates that look impossible from the ground, but most have weaknesses that are easy if you don't mind some air under your feet. I also think visiting climbers get psyched out because you have to climb way above the protection on cruxes.
User Avatar
welle

 
Posts: 600
Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: NY, New York, United States
Thanked: 21 times in 17 posts

Postby The Chief » Fri May 14, 2010 5:52 pm

CClaude wrote: Now the thing up the slab to its right with 3 bolts in the many pitches I won't touch and that is suppose to be 5.9 :shock: :shock: :shock: ..... When I moved to the West Coast I was doing 5.10X routes, and I wouldn't touch that thing, and 14 years later I still won't.


Really?......................No Comment other than there are lines with a far bigger pucker factor over to the far right...Gray Ghost ring a bell?
The Chief

 
Thanked: time in post

Postby CClaude » Fri May 14, 2010 6:22 pm

The Chief wrote:
CClaude wrote: Now the thing up the slab to its right with 3 bolts in the many pitches I won't touch and that is suppose to be 5.9 :shock: :shock: :shock: ..... When I moved to the West Coast I was doing 5.10X routes, and I wouldn't touch that thing, and 14 years later I still won't.


Really?......................No Comment other than there are lines with a far bigger pucker factor over to the far right...Gray Ghost ring a bell?


My synapses are getting old and don't remember Grey Ghosts, but thats what I like about Tuolumne, big pucker factors come in small (and huge) packages.
User Avatar
CClaude

 
Posts: 1550
Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 9:37 am
Location: Flagstaff, Arizona, United States
Thanked: 67 times in 40 posts

Postby ksolem » Fri May 14, 2010 6:36 pm

I started climbing in The Gunks in 1972. Horseman was my second climb, first lead. I recall being told it was 5.4 at the time.

That seems about right considering that Dirty Gerdie, a hop skip and a jump to the south, is 5.8.

We used to top rope Dirty Gerdie, but I never got around to leading it 'till 2006. It was pretty funny, when the old guy walked up and threw his rope out at the start pretty much all of the Uberfall action came to a stop until I sent.
User Avatar
ksolem

 
Posts: 5719
Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 4:25 pm
Location: Monrovia, California, United States
Thanked: 12 times in 9 posts

Postby welle » Fri May 14, 2010 7:09 pm

^^^ impressive lead considering how polished that rock is and how scary the pins are :shock:

I once saw a guy lead Nurdie Gerdie (5.10 face climb left of the arete). I don't know if you remember but high up the climb the crux is this high reach finger pocket. This guys hooks it with his thumb and mantels on it - that was one mighty strong thumb!
User Avatar
welle

 
Posts: 600
Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 9:08 pm
Location: NY, New York, United States
Thanked: 21 times in 17 posts

Previous

Return to Ethics, Spray, and Slander

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.