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recommendations for Yosemite

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
 

Re: recommendations for Yosemite

Postby fatdad » Thu Jan 13, 2011 9:24 pm

benken,

If you can go in April vs. March, you'll definitely be better off weather wise. However, you could totally get lucky in March.

Since you're pretty new to cracks by your own admission, start easy and then work your way up. Also, I'd stay away from rope stretchers until you have a better idea of what you can handle, that way you don't have to bail and leave gear. Like someone mentioned, the first pitch of the Jam Crack is 5.7 hand. If you hop on that and it feels iffy, you need some work. If it feels easy, then you can probably head over to Bishops Terrace, Harry Daley, etc. I think Knob Hill has some easier cracks.

I'd try to avoid TRing established climbs if you can help it, especially if others are there who want to lead it. Poor form. There are some shorter cracks you can TR over at Swan Slab. Highway Star (.10a/b) is easy to set up a TR on. Ultimately though TRing will help your crack technique, but most climbs there you're going to have to lead to do, so you'll have to learn how to hang out and place gear too.
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Re: recommendations for Yosemite

Postby benken » Sun Jan 23, 2011 7:51 pm

fatdad-

thanks for the advice. im not completely new to trad climbing, in fact i actually have a knack for figuring out tricky gear placement. the problem with SEKI is there isnt a massive amount of crack... ive done 'south cracks' on moro rock, but other than that ive only really been able to get my hands on a few bouldering cracks, not really those nice extended pitches ive been dreaming about.

i can lead up to 5.10 pretty darn proficiently, and i figure that a crack rated to 5.7 wouldnt be too difficult of a learning curve, id just have to commit to learning new technique. thats what im hoping to get out of my yo sim might trip in... *april. haha
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