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Route recommendations for Red Rock Canyon (5.9 and under)

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Route recommendations for Red Rock Canyon (5.9 and under)

Postby TimmyC » Fri Nov 23, 2012 7:58 pm

In Feb of this year, I went to Vegas to climb with a friend who was there with his wife, who was there on business. Neither of us had ever been to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, and we were not disappointed, despite the place being built up to be an amazing mecca (to be clear, it is both a mecca and amazing). We had such a great time that we're going back again this coming Feb, intending to make it a yearly trip.

The only problem with our trip last time was that the area is sooo big that we spent a lot of our time not climbing, but just exploring. Now that we have more of a handle on what is where, we're psyched to get a lot more climbing done on the upcoming trip. But what to climb?!?! I'm comfy leading trad at Red Rocks' 5.9, maybe a little higher if I'm feeling my oats, but nines are just about the limit of what my partner can follow. My question to the forum is what routes you'd recommend for four days of climbing.

We're loosely set on hitting Birdland since it was next to some stuff we hit last year and we were both wowed by its stature and size. We want to head to Oak Creek Canyon and bag Beulah's Book, Johnny Vegas and Solar Slab -- all three would be nice, but any one of them would do. And we dream of Crimson Chrysalis, but we're kind of afraid it'll be like the South Arete of South Early Winters on a summer weekend, i.e. suuuuper crowded.

Obviously, I'm scouring Dow Williams' and rpc's posts for info; they were an invaluable aid last year (thanks!). But rather than a scattershot approach, we'd actually like to pretend we're smarter than that and do some planning. Y'know, like instead of driving all over Hell's half-acre, repeating the park loop because our next climb is behind us (so dumb, but, with the two of us, so predictable), actually planning a day up Pine Creek, and then a day up Willow Springs, etc. We're fat old men, so we don't really climb hard enough to need rest days on a trip of this length -- and if we do, then, y'know, we'll rest, and by rest, I mean drink too much and go to bed early.

We have both the Brock/McMillen guide and Jerry Handren's. We'd prefer trad, but if it's fun, we'll be happy to clip bolts, too. So, suggestions? Thanks!
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Re: Route recommendations for Red Rock Canyon (5.9 and under

Postby Dow Williams » Sat Nov 24, 2012 4:36 pm

]If you use this index page correctly...you can quickly assess the location, climbing grade, number of pitches and whether a route is recommended or not, without leaving the page. From there it becomes a matter of choice. If you think CC is crowded....you might want to reconsider Solar Slab and Birdland. They are both much more crowded than Crimson. There are many good routes in Red Rock that have no folks on them, but I am not here to talk you into them. You will have to muster the courage to explore those on your own with the beta provided. Good Luck.
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Re: Route recommendations for Red Rock Canyon (5.9 and under

Postby rasgoat » Sat Nov 24, 2012 6:27 pm

We enjoyed Frogland very much.
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