Welcome to SP!  -
Areas & RangesMountains & RocksRoutesImagesArticlesTrip ReportsGearOtherPeoplePlans & PartnersWhat's NewForum

scrambles in the bugaboos

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Canada and Alaska. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Canada and Alaska Climbing Partners forum.
 

scrambles in the bugaboos

Postby xDoogiex » Fri Aug 20, 2010 6:41 pm

So I found out my best friend who just got into bouldering like 3 weeks ago has family 15 mins from the bugaboos. I don't do much rope climbing and he's afraid of heights. Great combo of awesomeness! But any recommendations for some class 3 or 4 scrambles or general mountaineering routes to check out? Hell we would have atleast a year to train. I wouldn't mind going to the low 5's. Idk about him on that. Any with somewhat easy walk offs or ways of the mountain I guess? I just started looking into it. Let me know what is up Canada and maybe I shall finally make my way up to the northern motherland!
User Avatar
xDoogiex

 
Posts: 1152
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:33 pm
Location: Westminster , Colorado, United States
Thanked: 36 times in 16 posts

Re: scrambles in the bugaboos

Postby James_W » Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:24 pm

xDoogiex wrote:So I found out my best friend who just got into bouldering like 3 weeks ago has family 15 mins from the bugaboos. I don't do much rope climbing and he's afraid of heights. Great combo of awesomeness! But any recommendations for some class 3 or 4 scrambles or general mountaineering routes to check out? Hell we would have atleast a year to train. I wouldn't mind going to the low 5's. Idk about him on that. Any with somewhat easy walk offs or ways of the mountain I guess? I just started looking into it. Let me know what is up Canada and maybe I shall finally make my way up to the northern motherland!


Eastpost Spire

http://www.summitpost.org/route/339201/ ... amble.html

Keep in mind you have to drive on a logging road and put chicken wire around your car.
User Avatar
James_W

 
Posts: 1469
Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 2:47 pm
Location: Northern Okanagan, BC, Canada
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Postby Hulio » Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:45 pm

As mentioned above, Eastpost is the most popular scramble in the Bugs. Crescent Spire, Cresent Towers, Brenta, and (I believe) Northpost all have class 3 routes up them.

For the low 5's, there is Pigeon Spire. It is often a quite congested route... but a classic. It is often done without the use of ropes, but there is considerable exposure. Also make sure to get the latest information on accessing Pigeon Spire... to my understanding, the Snowpatch/Bugaboo col has not been used this year (or longer?) because of hazardous conditions
User Avatar
Hulio

 
Posts: 220
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 4:40 am
Location: Kimberley, British Columbia, Canada
Thanked: 3 times in 3 posts

Postby Hulio » Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:46 pm

sorry, forgot to mention that Pigeon Spire requires glacier travel...
User Avatar
Hulio

 
Posts: 220
Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2006 4:40 am
Location: Kimberley, British Columbia, Canada
Thanked: 3 times in 3 posts

Postby Dow Williams » Fri Aug 20, 2010 9:10 pm

Hulio, the col still gets used (was in great shape earlier this year, prob sucks right now), it is just a matter of when it gets out of shape every year (exposed rock and ice) and you don't get an overnight freeze, then most of us head up the Pigeon Fork glacier which does in fact involve more intricate glacier travel and either descend same or use the ice fall raps between Snowpatch and Pigeon. 15 minutes from the Bugs? They must own a heli.
User Avatar
Dow Williams

 
Posts: 2349
Joined: Mon Jul 12, 2004 1:59 pm
Location: Utah and Canadian Rockies
Thanked: 219 times in 101 posts

Postby xDoogiex » Fri Aug 20, 2010 9:54 pm

Thanks guys. Ha when he told that I was like wow! Idk if I could handle anything like bugaboo spire but after hearing that I was like there has to be something I could handle and have a blast on.
User Avatar
xDoogiex

 
Posts: 1152
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:33 pm
Location: Westminster , Colorado, United States
Thanked: 36 times in 16 posts

Postby xDoogiex » Fri Aug 20, 2010 10:29 pm

Safe to guess no rap anchors? I probably should practice it at a local crag
User Avatar
xDoogiex

 
Posts: 1152
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:33 pm
Location: Westminster , Colorado, United States
Thanked: 36 times in 16 posts

Postby klwagar » Sat Aug 21, 2010 7:25 am

that was what I was wondering. I can't think of who lives 15 mins from the Bugs.
User Avatar
klwagar

 
Posts: 165
Joined: Sat Sep 28, 2002 11:10 pm
Location: Canada
Thanked: 2 times in 1 post

Postby James_W » Sat Aug 21, 2010 8:03 am

klwagar wrote:that was what I was wondering. I can't think of who lives 15 mins from the Bugs.


No one does unless they live in and own the CMH lodge. That is like saying you live 15 mins from Lake of the hanging glacier.
User Avatar
James_W

 
Posts: 1469
Joined: Sat May 14, 2005 2:47 pm
Location: Northern Okanagan, BC, Canada
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Postby Sierra Ledge Rat » Sat Aug 21, 2010 11:33 am

Marmalota Mountain
Hound's Tooth

Both require glacier travel
User Avatar
Sierra Ledge Rat

 
Posts: 1117
Joined: Mon Jan 01, 2007 9:14 am
Location: Appalachia, United States
Thanked: 241 times in 158 posts

Postby xDoogiex » Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:53 pm

They probably made up the time way to close. But still closer then others
User Avatar
xDoogiex

 
Posts: 1152
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:33 pm
Location: Westminster , Colorado, United States
Thanked: 36 times in 16 posts

Postby xDoogiex » Sat Aug 21, 2010 5:13 pm

Eastpost spire would deff have to be a go. Pigeon spire sounds pretty awesome! I'll check out some of the ones I never heard of later. It sucks looking up peaks on my phone on here
User Avatar
xDoogiex

 
Posts: 1152
Joined: Thu Aug 13, 2009 4:33 pm
Location: Westminster , Colorado, United States
Thanked: 36 times in 16 posts


Return to Canada and Alaska

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests

© 2006-2013 SummitPost.org. All Rights Reserved.