I got skunked by trying to hike around the wrong side of the first snowfield.
It was too steep to skin. I ended up scree-scrambling to the left and above the first snowfield. Took forever. Every step was a catastrophe waiting to happen. The whole slope of scree would move, threatening to send me onto the snowfield below, which would have resulted in a slide-for-life.
After that first snow patch, I was able to put my skins on. Skinned to 11,000 ft. Just above the Lower Headwall. The snow was getting soft and steep. It was not possible to skin any farther. Lots of rockfall going on all around me.
I thought about putting my crampons on and jibbing on up. But decided to head back.
Noon is always a good turn-around time anyways. The snow was unbelievably smooth!
Here's some action: