The Chief wrote:Be aware that many if not most Sierra Class 4+ (Clyde Routes etc) Raps are normally 25m raps which require at least a 50 meter cord. This includes all the raps one will find on either side of the PALS, Mendel, Darwin, Evolution Traverse, Russell, Thor, etc.
I am interested when you last "rapped" the SW Face or North Couloir routes of Humphreys, Chad. I did it with a client three weeks ago and they were just as I replaced them five years ago, set up for a standard 50 meter rope (25 meter) as they were originally placed some 40 plus years or so ago.
As recall it was relativly new and purple.... Of course I had webbing to set up an additional one if needed...
The Chief wrote:That entails a 55 foot or so rap back down and over the Chockstone if one is not comfortable with the Class 4+ downclimb. Something to consider as well.
Again, don't add tatter to established routes. Makes them that more cluttered, confusing and polluted.
The Chief wrote: B-Burds chockstone Direct variation is not CLASS 2. Even Bob Burd describes an alternate Class 2 chute to this variation. And if you insist it is, you have not done it!A third of the way up there is a huge chockstone blocking the chute, but with several ways to surmount it. The easiest way is on the left side where some thin ledges can be used climb the chockstone directly (I found this on the way down). I climbed up to the chockstone and with a very long stretch of the legs (it helps to be 6' at times like this) managed to pull myself up starting on the right side and standing on a friction slope in the middle of the chockstone. Later I found that it is also possible to climb out of the main chute from below the chockstone taking a side chute up to the left where class 2 climbing can take you all the way to the ramp.
http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports ... eys_1.html
The Chief wrote:BTW, the Rap I found for the Chockstone entails no gear/runners etc. Had you done the Chockstone, you would know that there is a nice large sized upward angled flat boulder outcropping on the top left section of the slab (visible in my posted pic above) that one just needs to sling the rope over nicely and then rap. The pull is clean and free of any obstructions.
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