Sierra snow couloirs

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Golden State. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the California Climbing Partners forum.
User Avatar
Luciano136

 
Posts: 3778
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:46 pm
Thanked: 11 times in 10 posts

Sierra snow couloirs

by Luciano136 » Thu May 13, 2010 4:52 pm

Trying to get some ideas. Getting the wife more comfortable on steep snow. She does NOT like ice, so I'm looking for some good snow couloirs. We recently did Thor SE couloir, which was perfect. Another one on the list is Dade hourglass. Any other suggestions come to mind? Preferably doable as a day hike but not necessary. Oh yeah, I would probably like to keep it at 40ish degrees max.

Thanks!!

no avatar
The Chief

 
Thanked: time in post

by The Chief » Thu May 13, 2010 5:16 pm

NORTH PEAK COULOIRS
2 hour hike tops. Walk off.
Image

MT DANA
2 hour hike in... walk off possible.
Image

RED SLATE COULOIR
Image
Last edited by The Chief on Thu May 13, 2010 5:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User Avatar
Michael Graupe

 
Posts: 153
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 10:55 am
Thanked: 9 times in 8 posts

by Michael Graupe » Thu May 13, 2010 5:21 pm

The ones I have enjoyed tremendously were:

NE Couloir on Diamond Peak
NE Couloir Mount Powell ("Point Powell")
Glacier route on Mount Conness
Hourglass Couloir on Mt. Dade

They are not too steep, no rock fall and also reasonably short. Great for practicing snow climbing IMHO.

User Avatar
Climber Dave

 
Posts: 323
Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2006 12:21 am
Thanked: 13 times in 12 posts

by Climber Dave » Thu May 13, 2010 5:23 pm

Hey Chief whats that 2nd one? It looks fun. The 3rd Red Slate??

User Avatar
Luciano136

 
Posts: 3778
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:46 pm
Thanked: 11 times in 10 posts

by Luciano136 » Thu May 13, 2010 5:25 pm

Sweet, I see some coming up I had not thought of. Chief, any names on those :) ?

User Avatar
Say yes to crack

 
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 12:07 am
Thanked: 6 times in 3 posts

by Say yes to crack » Thu May 13, 2010 5:36 pm

The second photo looks like Dana

no avatar
The Chief

 
Thanked: time in post

by The Chief » Thu May 13, 2010 5:37 pm

The Chief wrote:NORTH PEAK COULOIRS
2 hour hike tops. Walk off.
Image

MT DANA
2 hour hike in... walk off possible.
Image

RED SLATE COULOIR
Image


These three can be done in a day.

User Avatar
rhyang

 
Posts: 8960
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:55 pm
Thanked: 59 times in 38 posts

by rhyang » Thu May 13, 2010 5:38 pm

The Chief wrote:Image
Image
Image

To name a few that are well within a days doing.....


1. North Peak N couloirs - typically 45-50 degrees.

2. Dana Couloir - about 40-ish degrees max.

3. Red Slate N Couloir - haven't done it, ask Miguel :)

I would like to try the NE Couloir on Diamond Peak this spring as well. There is also an east chute which a lot of people (including myself) seem to mistake for the NE Couloir (see this thread).

no avatar
The Chief

 
Thanked: time in post

by The Chief » Thu May 13, 2010 5:49 pm

I have done them all, quite a few times actually.

There is big difference in difficulty when the conditions are Sierra Bullet Ice that is found late in the season and when they are just styro Snow hard pack which one will find within the next few weeks actually.

The latter of course being far less difficult and more enjoyable to some if done early in the morning when the hard packed snow is just.....


THHHHHHHHHUUUUMP....AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, Perfect fun!

User Avatar
Luciano136

 
Posts: 3778
Joined: Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:46 pm
Thanked: 11 times in 10 posts

by Luciano136 » Thu May 13, 2010 6:02 pm

Yeah, it would all be before end of June probably. In case of a fall, softer snow is more forgiving.

User Avatar
Say yes to crack

 
Posts: 61
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 12:07 am
Thanked: 6 times in 3 posts

by Say yes to crack » Thu May 13, 2010 6:43 pm

Bloody Mtn. would be a good one also, despite the name

User Avatar
rhyang

 
Posts: 8960
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 8:55 pm
Thanked: 59 times in 38 posts

by rhyang » Thu May 13, 2010 9:29 pm

btw Not to hijack Bruno's thread, but has anyone gotten anywhere near the East Couloir of Basin or the Kindergarten Couloir ? How is the road ? I think my forester should get to the trailhead for Basin if there is not too much snow still by the time 108 opens in a few weeks (crossing fingers) ..

no avatar
The Chief

 
Thanked: time in post

by The Chief » Thu May 13, 2010 9:37 pm

It is clearing up fast Rob. Looked at it yesterday from Mill Pond. Should be pretty clear up to the PL below Humphrey's by the end of next week at the soonest if these forecasted temps come true.

Snow is in fact melting fast around here and the Hilton Creek Jeep trail will be completely clear of snow by the end of the weekend. It is at the same altitude as the road in question.

User Avatar
ExploreABitMore

 
Posts: 484
Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2004 11:53 am
Thanked: 15 times in 13 posts

by ExploreABitMore » Thu May 13, 2010 9:40 pm

I personally think the one's Chief mentioned (except Dana) would probably be scary for somebody just getting used to steep snow.

I'd recommend some easier snow climbs, like:

*University Pass
*Mt Aggasiz from Bishop Pass in early season can consist of a nice snow climb for part at least
*Mt Goode is a real easy snow climb from Bishop Pass Trail
*Mt Johnson's N Ridge has a short snow climb on the approach (in early season, its crap later), and some fun Class 3 on the ridge
*Mt Morgan has some nice snow couloirs above Francis lake. Just gotta avoid the easier way on the right by ridge
*Mt Dade Hourglass
etc, etc

Have Fun!
g4b

Also, the Ritter-Banner saddle is another fairly easy one .. with two nice peaks to climb from the saddle once you get there

User Avatar
Carbo

 
Posts: 1601
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 8:43 pm
Thanked: 8 times in 8 posts

by Carbo » Thu May 13, 2010 9:58 pm

Dana would be a good first climb. However, maybe I am slow but I need more than two hours to reach it

Next

Return to California

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests