MattGreene wrote:Yeah, Dan, I understand why the conversation confused you, because we're basically just for fun discussing a technique none of us, including Gwave, would ever try...
gwave47 wrote:...it's not an effort issue, just more of a time issue.
I'm planning on hiking/climbing Granite next summer.
The crux pitch is a short 5.9 dihedral, which with
rock shoes I would have been happy to free solo, but with boots and
gloves I decided here to use a rudimentary self-belay. Since I knew I
would be rappelling down the same route, I could leave several nuts
and cams on this pitch for my self-belay and retrieve them on the
descent. I re-donned crampons halfway up the last rock pitch because
a wide crack was iced up, and soon was walking up the summit snowfield.
myfierceblackhound wrote:I guess someone forgot to tell Colin that there is absolutely no way to climb and rappel only once!
Colin Hayley wrote:The rope is the "6mm Alpine Personal Escape Rope," by Esprit Ropes in Toronto. It is an excellent rap/tag line I think. No special core - all nylon. It has a burly sheath. It is quite stiff, which is always a plus in super skinny ropes, because the stiff rap lines tangle less.
Colin Hayley wrote:As for the one pitch where I belayed, it is a rudimentary technique, that in Yosemite is often referred to as "back-looping." The idea is to build a multi-directional anchor at the base of the questionable terrain, thread your rope through this anchor, attach yourself to both strands of the rope (whether with knots, hitches, or devices), and climb up, risking a factor 2 fall onto your anchor. The advantage over a traditional self-belay is that you can simply pull your rope up from above afterwards, rather than having to rappel down and prusik back up. If you are descending the same route that you are climbing (such as I was in this video), then you can clip both strands through intermediate pieces of protection (such as the cams I was placing in this video), because you know that you can retrieve them on your descent, to negate the possibility of taking a factor 2 fall. And just to be clear - this is NOT a safe, or accepted technique for self-belaying - it is a technique that I chose to use on a section of climbing that was only just barely hard enough that I wasn't comfortable free-soloing it. It is still "sketchy," and a guaranteed way to fail your UIAGM alpine exam!
MattGreene wrote:If you were clipping both rope sections into each piece of protection, that'd probably give you 6-10 pinch points. I'd expect severe drag, but could be wrong.
Colin Hayley wrote:And just to be clear - this is NOT a safe, or accepted technique for self-belaying - it is a technique that I chose to use on a section of climbing that was only just barely hard enough that I wasn't comfortable free-soloing it. It is still "sketchy," and a guaranteed way to fail your UIAGM alpine exam!
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