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SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

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SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Wed Dec 01, 2010 8:55 pm

The Stonemasters: California Rock Climbers in the Seventies

This may be old news, but I myself just saw Guy Keesee on page 81 of this great book!

Guyzo and Jim Wilson are photographed up in Idyllwild, with their big bamboo “smoking apparatus.” Congratulations, Guyzo, on making the Stonemaster cut.

Whereas most of us didn’t make the cut, including Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt—whoa!
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby Blair » Thu Dec 02, 2010 4:01 am

Yeah, that is a great shot. and a great book to have!

Those bamboo bongs are lung crushers
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Thu Dec 02, 2010 11:24 pm

Blair wrote:Those bamboo bongs are lung crushers


We must not let the bamboo bong overshadow Guyzo's long climbing career.

Btw: to really appreciate climbing in the 1970s you have to take a few longish, steep whippers onto a "swami belt." When the rope went tight...sometimes you felt like simultaneously vomiting and moving your bowels, all at once. God knows what it did to my kidneys and ureters.

``steve
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby JHH60 » Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:28 am

Steve1215 wrote:Btw: to really appreciate climbing in the 1970s you have to take a few longish, steep whippers onto a "swami belt." When the rope went tight...sometimes you felt like simultaneously vomiting and moving your bowels, all at once. God knows what it did to my kidneys and ureters.

``steve


For the full experience you had to take the fall on goldline. And your belay partner had to have rope burns on his back and/or arm for the next several days from catching you. At least that's what they taught us at the Colorado Outward Bound School. Then again, COBS also made us use leaves, pine cones, and (above tree line) rocks instead of toilet paper, so it could have been part of the whole "learning" experience. :)
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Fri Dec 03, 2010 4:57 am

JHH60 wrote:For the full experience you had to take the fall on goldline. And your belay partner had to have rope burns on his back and/or arm for the next several days from catching you.


I missed the Goldline by many years, but still have a scar from a hip belay rope burn, circa 1976. I think we switched to Sticht plates about 78. Oh brother, to be 16-years-old again! Pure adventure.
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby EManBevHills » Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:11 am

Congrats Guyzo!
Now that's some cool beans...
Any interest in an old pair of RR climbing shoes size 8 1/2 ish?
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby Guyzo » Sat Dec 04, 2010 5:58 pm

Steve and all..... it cost me a ton of cash to get into that book.

I did pay my dues to become a Stonemaster.

To become a StoneMaster all one needed to do was "Lead Vahalla" one of the first 5.11 in the world.

Chuck Wilts (the guidebook author) commented that he thought 5.11 was not possible by humans.

That was a red cape to go after.

I think I did about the 10 ascent, thats what Largo said.

It took Mike Pope and I about 20 tries to get up it, spread out over one summer and fall, (yes, I do have P1 wired and can still crank that one off at will) Mike left the door wide open for me when he fell at crux and went down about 25 feet and banged off the little ledge. (yes a hip belay was used)

I was suffering from a wicked cold and was so jacked up from taking cold medicine I really didn't care about anything.

When I caught hold of the "Football" I really didn't know what was keeping me there, a few more moves and it got easier.

Pope lead the last pitch and the party was on.

We did some heavy drinking, of the "Tom Collins" later that nite.

Sometimes you just get lucky.
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby Charles » Sat Dec 04, 2010 10:13 pm

I´m impressed!
Any photos?
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby rasgoat » Sun Dec 05, 2010 2:35 am

Climbed beside Pat Ament this spring at the gunk's. Started chattin with him about Colorado b'fore I even knew who he was. Pretty cool dude.
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby Guyzo » Sun Dec 05, 2010 2:42 am

charles wrote:I´m impressed!
Any photos?


Thanks Charles.

Unfortunately no photos, I didn't own a camera back then. We were way to busy climbing things to take pics.

And belaying, back then, took both hands. You know. :wink:
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby mvs » Sun Dec 05, 2010 8:53 am

That is pretty awesome! Largo's writing gives such a colorful flavor to those 1970s Southern California daze. Must have been great to live that...
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby Charles » Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:50 am

Guyzo wrote:
charles wrote:I´m impressed!
Any photos?


Thanks Charles.

Unfortunately no photos, I didn't own a camera back then. We were way to busy climbing things to take pics.

And belaying, back then, took both hands. You know. :wink:

Indeed - both hands, shoulder and loads of luck. :D
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby jesu, joy of man's desiring » Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:46 am

I'm sure Guyzo would not mind me mentioning California's other illustrious Stonemaster, Tobin Sorenson--the boy from Covina, California.

From the late 1970s, here are a few of Tobin Sorenson's major alpine climbing accomplishments:

FA of the Dru Couloir Direct, Chamonix, with Rick Accomazzo
First continuous ascent of the Eiger Direct, with the late Alex McIntyre
A ropeless solo ascent of the Matterhorn North Face, done in 8.5 hours
Grand Central Couloir, Mt. Kitchener, Canadian Rockies, with Jack Roberts

Sorenson later died in a fall on Mt. Alberta's North Face, during a solo attempt in 1980, at the age of 25.


Here is a photo of Tobin Sorenson from my image bank:

http://www.summitpost.org/user-profile-image/551560


----
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Re: SP Member "Guyzo" is WAY RAD

Postby Charles » Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:06 pm

Steve1215 wrote:I'm sure Guyzo would not mind me mentioning California's other illustrious Stonemaster, Tobin Sorenson--the boy from Covina, California.

From the late 1970s, here are a few of Tobin Sorenson's major alpine climbing accomplishments:

FA of the Dru Couloir Direct, Chamonix, with Rick Accomazzo
First continuous ascent of the Eiger Direct, with the late Alex McIntyre
A ropeless solo ascent of the Matterhorn North Face, done in 8.5 hours
Grand Central Couloir, Mt. Kitchener, Canadian Rockies, with Jack Roberts

Sorenson later died in a fall on Mt. Alberta's North Face, during a solo attempt in 1980, at the age of 25.


Here is a photo of Tobin Sorenson from my image bank:

http://www.summitpost.org/user-profile-image/551560


----

The only point where I could even half way relate to someone of that calibre is that I also wore EBs
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