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Starting in the gym

Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.
 

Re: Starting in the gym

Postby mfox79 » Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:36 pm

Back/Shoulders - Planks,Delt Rows, SHoulder Press, Lat Pull, Dumbell Benchpress, Crunches on a ballence ball. Back Extensions.

Legs - Squats on a Bosu Ball, Lunges, Calf Presses,Box Jumps

Cardio - Runing Intervals, Spining Trainer intervals. Stair Climber intervals.

This is a good start I found for a base training. add or decrease the exercises depending on how you feel.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby ytimk » Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:35 pm

Don't forget pull-ups!
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby Dave Dinnell » Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:12 pm

And keep it balanced. Don't focus on some muscle groups and ignore others...
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby fatdad » Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:57 pm

Burpees. They look silly but get you working.
Box jumps.
Rope climbs.
Find someone to throw a medicine ball around with.
Also review the exercises they have on mountainathlete.com. They don't have the workouts on line anymore (other than just a few select ones) but they have video of lots of varied, useful gym exercises.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby radson » Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:06 pm

fatdad wrote:Burpees. They look silly but get you working.
Box jumps.
Rope climbs.
Find someone to throw a medicine ball around with.
Also review the exercises they have on mountainathlete.com. They don't have the workouts on line anymore (other than just a few select ones) but they have video of lots of varied, useful gym exercises.


Im doing burpee box jumps and burpee pullups now, great all round exercise and get me to my max heart rate fairly damm quickly.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby fatdad » Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:12 pm

Yup. You perform a burpee under a pull up bar and when you jump up, you grab the bar and crank off a pull up.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby radson » Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:04 am

fatdad wrote:Yup. You perform a burpee under a pull up bar and when you jump up, you grab the bar and crank off a pull up.


Yup :)

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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby SKI » Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:52 am

Burpees are good but this guy's workout is crap. Can't be using upward momentum on the pullups! Burpee box jumps- those will put hair on your chest. Deadlifts, overhead squats, kettlebell swings, snatch cleans, thrusters and pullups with ice tools- coupled with a solid trail running routine (maybe a little bit of rowing here and there) and you'll be in plenty good shape to tackle solid grade V+ routes!

But really, nothing beats spending time in the alpine. I know a bunch of older guys that hardly spend time in the gym yet can hike circles around me because of their mountain-hardened muscles.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby Ze » Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:47 am

Intervals > 3-5 min

Work on shoulder external rotators and rhomboids as those tend to get missed.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby fatdad » Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:03 pm

AlpineAffinity wrote:Burpees are good but this guy's workout is crap. Can't be using upward momentum on the pullups!


Well, he certainly is cheating himself out of a better workout. His arms are at almost a ninety degree angle before he even starts pulling up. By far the hardest part of a pullup is bending on arms from a dead hang.

Don't do too many pullups though or you'll find yourself like me, 47 and starting to develop shoulder problems. Though that was probably from a hangboard more than the pullups.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby mike_lindacher » Fri Jan 21, 2011 4:09 am

i learned how to burpee today.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby CClaude » Fri Jan 21, 2011 1:49 pm

Ze wrote:Intervals > 3-5 min

Work on shoulder external rotators and rhomboids as those tend to get missed.


I agree. The last thing you want is to have shouder surgery (a guy I know who is a climbing guide had it done last year and it took 9-12mos to get back into the game). Personally, I'd work (or I should say I do work):

1) both Internal and external shoulder rotations
2) 1 arm row (concentrating on the last part of the motion which works on the supraspintus which also comes into play in stablizing the shoulder
3) high woodchopper
4) decline twisting abdomanol (sorry poor spelling)
5) seated twist
hanging leg raise progressing to a front lever
6) hip flexors and extensors (strong hips have been shown to decrease knee injuries especially while running
7) single leg balance on a stability pad (works the muscles that stabilize the knee


The object is to keep a balance
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby fatdad » Fri Jan 21, 2011 6:40 pm

CClaude wrote:Personally, I'd work (or I should say I do work):

1) both Internal and external shoulder rotations


What are some examples of these exercises. As noted earlier, my right shoulder is getting funky. I can still do most stuff, but it's not 100% and could certainly use some strengthening.
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Re: Starting in the gym

Postby CClaude » Mon Jan 24, 2011 2:12 pm

You can do both internal and external rotator cuffs in a variety of manners.

You can do it lieing down on your side with light weights as shown in Eric Horst's "Conditioning for Climbing". It can also be shown here: http://www.bodyresults.com/e2rotatorcuff.asp

I find it better to do with either a thera-band or a machine whereyou are standing at a slight diagnal from the line of force. Stand with your arms at your side with the arm bent at 90 degrees with a towel tucked between your side and your elbow (to maintain proper position of the arm) you will rotate the arm from about 30degrees from fully open, rotating it until your fist hits your stomach (internal rotation). External rotation uses force applied in the opposite direction.

Another description is shown here http://www.shoulder-pain-management.com ... cises.html


Its easiest to describe in a video for which try: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23s4w6OfhuQ

As most websites say, most people will start the strengthening after an injury. Climbing is such a shoulder intensive activity with large amounts of forces being transferred from the arms and back that the stability of the shoulder is paramount. I do these strengthening year round

Also most climbers look like gorilla's with the shoulders pulled forward. Bad form and hard on the shoulder socket and the muscle attachments. Myself, I do stretching (one of the few stretches I actually do) where I lie on my back on a stability pad (like I use o work onmy knee strength) and pull my elbows to the floor.

I also do one arm rows which if you need more info I can find.
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