Hello, I am planning to do the Swiss Arete of Mount Sill in late July, followed by a traverse to Polemonium Peak. I like to travel light. I usually carry a 30m rope, Camalot #1-#4 and a bunch of nuts and slings. For the people who have climbed this route, what do you recommend? I have read some of the trip reports and people have used 60 m ropes. But, I have climbed the L Couloir route before, and have descended without having to rappel. Is the longer rope needed?

Also, for anyone who has been up to the Palisades, what is the snow condition like? I went skiing at Squaw Valley last week at about 8,500 ft. and there was snow.

Thanks,
Fernando

With regard to the Swiss Arete (which is not an arete and not in Switzerland), my party of 4 used a 150 foot, 11mm rope. There was a fixed pin at the crux we clipped in to, I don't recollect placing any other protection. I only remember one pitch being exposed and difficult. I also remember it was an enjoyable climb on good rock and the view from the top is exceptional.

The last time I did the Swiss Arête, I brought a pair of rock shoes. A few of my buddies met me on Thunderbolt, and they brought a rope for the summit block.

The snow conditions will be much different in late July, but as of now there are big sun cups but the snow is pretty firm, or at least it was for me yesterday. As far as gear, I am pretty sure your proposed rope is too short to do the normal rappel on the descent from Sill. The other gear seems appropriate to me, although there will always be folks that claim any given climb is fourth class and requires no gear. I think the crux is rated (or used to be) 5.7 and is supposed to be the short wall / crack after the "scary step around" but the latter is psychologically the crux in my opinion. The last time I did this route there was a stuck Camelot protecting this move. I forget what color or size offhand. It was largish.