Finished the route
Everything else in this album
. I think the conditions are unfortunately out now thanks to temperatures well above freezing day and night, but that's just based on the point forecast. If it stays below freezing at night, the climb will hold out a little while longer. Anyone else head up there recently? What did you climb? Also, my partners think this is El Grandote, but the lower dihedral looks an awful lot like the picture of NE face on SummitPost.
For future parties, this route goes at AI3 when it's in, and probably M4 when it's not at the headwall. 60 degrees average for first 3 pitches with short, steep steps, then 70 degrees for a while through the crux with a couple 2 meter vertical steps, followed by more moderate, 60 degree or lower stuff.