brandon wrote:It's called getting old brother. Your comeback is amazing, and you're performing at a level thats beyond most already. Stay away from that Diamox stuff.
Regarding technical climbing. Here's a breakdown of diminishing performance that makes sense to me. Scale as necessary.
5.12- on toprope
5.11 sport onsite
5.10+ trad onsite
hard 5.9 alpine
hard 5.8 alpine with an overnight pack
5.13 and 5.14 climbers in the big moutains are often giving total effort to OS hard 10 and easier 11 pitches. Likewise M12 climbers on M6 in the mtns.
I am well over 16 years older than you Brendan and just finished some solid sustained .10+ alpine at 14K with clients. Spent over 6-10 weeks last summer climbing high 10's and low 11.s Trad, consistently, at 12k and above.
I believe that ones fitness level as well as the amount of time they actually spend acclimating is so very critical.
Also, we are working with Dr. Hackett on my recent client HAPE death scenario. My situ is a clear indication, according to his studies, that there are just some folks out there that are not physiologically adaptable to high altitudes.
Rob, you may just be one of these folks.
On a side note Rob, look into Cordyceps, Guarana and Taurine. Been taking them regularly for the past five years and really feel the difference in strength, endurance and 02 capacity at 10k and above.