AlpineAffinity wrote:So, I have this perspective about aid climbing...
Until I can competently climb 5.10, I don't think that I should dabble, just yet, in all of that "6th Class" business.
I have several friends who complain time and time again about people on the Nose or WC who slow down several parties because they can't free some of the easier (i'm told 5.8ish) sections. Not just that, but their overall aid technique is slow as molasses due to the fact that they more than likely haven't been climbing long enough to be absolutely fluid and/or trustfull of their gear placements and security.
So I wanna know...
What are your opinions about getting into aid climbing? Is there a certain threshold of freeclimbing one must attain before setting off on the big walls? What are your experiences? What have you seen on the walls?
AlpineAffinity wrote:would you say that by the time one reaches 5.10 (I feel as though it's a fairly attainable level), important aspects of climbing such as systematic knowledge, rope management, gear placement, anchors and just general we-gotta-problem-maybe-this-will-work gumption has become fluid to the climber
AlpineAffinity wrote:stories about climbing noobs taking an hour to C1 up a crack that free's at a strenuous 5.9 or hear about parties dropping a haul pulley or look up at the Cap to see 4 groups wait while a party of three tries to figure out what the shiny hooks do now that they've burnt their last green alien 6 placements ago
AlpineAffinity wrote:As far as learning trust in placements, I again have had the fortune of having knowledgeable friends severely critique my placements, both on ice and on rock, time and time again. I've climbed in places where a botched placement under duress means air time and at places where protection (tricky at best) is few and far between. I am confident in my placements now because of this type of classic feedback- and I have yet to step in aiders.
AlpineAffinity wrote:emotional (read: vaginal) discharge.
Sierra Ledge Rat wrote:What, no one is going to challenge the Chief!?
I'm not either.
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