Trap Dike

Regional discussion and conditions reports for the Eastern US. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Eastern US Climbing Partners section.
User Avatar
chocodove

 
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:54 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Trap Dike

by chocodove » Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:46 pm

Anyone been up Trap Dike recently? I am going to attempt it in about a week or so (as long as it remains dry) and the only thing that worries me is the exit point onto the slide. I hear conflicting reports as to whether there is a cairn or not??

User Avatar
Autoxfil

 
Posts: 558
Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:40 pm
Thanked: 36 times in 29 posts

Re: Trap Dike

by Autoxfil » Sun Jul 24, 2011 4:07 am

The rocks is pretty grippy even when wet. You can also pull on trees around the cruxes if it's too wet. So, don't bail because of a little water, I bet you can find a way up that you're comfortable with.

After the final and hardest (dry) waterfall crux, there's a series of possible exits, which get easier and easier until you go too far and the dike gets much brushier. Just take the first one that looks easy enough for you to be comfortable on. The first few are probably 5th class moves, then there are a couple 3rd class slabby exits.

After the final, easiest, "proper" exit, the dike gets brushy and the next obvious way out is a dead-end slide with lots of bushwhacking to the summit.

The Dike is amazing; possibly the best scramble in the east. Enjoy!

The following user would like to thank Autoxfil for this post
chocodove

User Avatar
triyoda

 
Posts: 132
Joined: Mon Sep 04, 2006 3:17 am
Thanked: 6 times in 6 posts

Re: Trap Dike

by triyoda » Mon Jul 25, 2011 2:31 am

I climbed it today. Very dry, no issues at all with traction. You will see how low Marcy pond is, so they must not be getting a ton of rain.

As you get higher in the Dyke, it will be slabby (but the wall on the right will gradually become more of a "shoulder" that looks like it would be relatively easy to climb out of) on the right, but mostly green on the left. When you see a rocky exposed patch on the left (in a sea of green) you are nearing a good exit point on the right. You probably want to be about 50 meters below this rocky wall on the left when you start to traverse right. You will have to bushwhack about 20 - 30 feet to the shoulder of the main slab that is the face of Colden. I walked along the shoulder (minor bushwhack), for about 40 feet and then found a suitable way up onto the main slab. The slab is steep as you ascend to the summit (40 - 45 degrees), but is very grippy. I am surprised the face is not graded as low fifth class friction (5.1, 5.2). The Dyke itself is mostly 3rd class, however there are at least 3 or 4 spots of what I would consider 4th class, including the crux, which is several moves.
Last edited by triyoda on Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

The following user would like to thank triyoda for this post
chocodove

User Avatar
chocodove

 
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2009 3:54 pm
Thanked: 1 time in 1 post

Re: Trap Dike

by chocodove » Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:57 pm

Thanks for the info. We'll be there on Thursday and weather looks good so far, so up we go.


Return to Eastern US (New England, Mid-Atlantic, Southeast)

 


  • Related topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests