Chad and I approached to the "Fischer Camp" on the west moraine of the glacier. Continuous, suncupped snow from Sam Mack up.
The second day we climbed the L-Shaped Snowfield route on Sill and the "Yellow Brick Road" on Gayley in perfect conditions.
Day 3 we did the U-notch in challenging conditions. On descent we cleaned up 12 pounds (not 20, as I suggested in the video ) of old rappel slings, rattly pins, jingus nuts, and even a 1974 quarter, a camelback nozzle, and some other contraband. Some of the highest "stranded" anchors were out of reach and remain as reminders of an older, fatter U-notch ice climb. And I am sure there are anchors buried under this year's layer. There are now good rock-based anchors in the lower 3rd of the route. The upper 2/3rds is currently down-climbable, but will soon be safe to descend on v-threads. Let's keep it clean up there. Be safe, but remember all the "LNT" descending options: Specifically, run these skinny ropes directly through v-threads, or come down on bollards. A bollard chopped into the lip of a couloir-wall moat can be real fast and secure.
Here's our pile of "tat". I am just realizing that the photo is out of focus, or is that my computer screen? Chad, have a better one?
In summary, the Palisades couldn't be in better condition! Fast, consolidated snow, cruiser approach, dry rock, and relatively good weather. Awesome! Enjoy.
Last edited by JedSMG on Thu Jul 21, 2011 5:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Good job. The camp is the one of the PSOM sites named after John Fischer (not Fisher). In 1978 ,John showed me a Norman Clyde stash near Contact Pass which was a large metal garbage can full of junk that Clyde had picked up in the area and said that there were several others in the Palisades.
WOW! Sure looks like a buttload more tat grew since we did the same two years ago. We too had a ton of crap that I brought out.
Were you able to clean out the several different fixed Camalots & Friends from the Island down to the last Rap? I desperately tried two years ago during our clean up project and could not get them out. I am assuming that you did not even encounter them as the snow level is much higher this year than it was two years ago. Probably all still buried huh?
Granjero: Nope. And don't remind me! Though I have more than my share of excuses, I'm not psyched that I let this one slip through. Excuses like: the best powder season ever, a month in Alaska, 3 big "professional development" courses, a divorce, the best ice season in a while, and laziness. You know, stuff like that... Maybe I'll do a dry-land version in the fall.
Jerry A: Thanks for the post. And for the spelling correction. I spoke briefly with John about your climbs with him. Sounds like the two of you had some sweet adventures!
Chief: Yup, there's still tons of stuff both above and below the current snow line. Some of the anchors we cleaned up had rap-rings etc. frozen into the gliding couloir. Pulled tight as a bow-string! Probably pulls off some of those flakes on occasion! One pin anchor was easier to clean by prying the flake off.