Does anyone have a recent update on the conditions of U-Notch couloir? Is ice 100% avoidable? Also, what is the state of the bergschrund? I'm heading out to the Sierras this weekend and was hoping to make an attempt at North Palisade or Polemonium via this route.
In addition, can anyone recommend to me some alpine-style routes that would involve as little ice as possible? Easy snow would be ideal -- I'm climbing with someone who has minimal alpine experience, and I am unfamiliar with the area and conditions. The U-notch was originally my first choice based on what I have heard; however, if the conditions are not so good, I would be open to anything else