SummitPost.org

visentin wrote:http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2010/may/23/bonita-norris-everest-mountaineering

Her blog makes for some interesting reading -- the second paragraph -- the end of the top-up at ATM Everest Expedition
http://bonitanorris.blogspot.com

dynamokiev98 wrote:These formations were not their goals..Why can't we all agree that it is great for this family to plan something together, work hard, and accomplish it? Different people, different goals and desires..

Ahhh...... My point exactly.

The Chief wrote:But, does it really fking matter?

If this was all just meant to accomplish the "Goal" that you state, then that's cool.

But, what really gets me about his whole gig, is all the pre, during and certainly the post climb International Media ATTENTION that they seem to be getting. Why do you think that is?

And a "Team Spokesman"? WTF is that all about?



I say cuz it's all worth a cool couple of million bucks in after climb advertisements, sponsorships and book revenues... that's why.


And all this competition crap.... how far does one go with that?

I am waiting to hear that some pregnant Chinese lady climber gives birth on the summit to "Officially" claim it for her nation and set the record for that event.

But I guess that's what happens when you join in on the "Tribe".

Go get that record and send it baby.....




WTF happened to going out and just climbing?


The Tribe. That's what happened. More, Bigger, Fastest, Youngest, Hardest etc etc etc.....

WOW!



Oh, don't forget to watch it all on these shows in the coming weeks....












What happened to just going out for a quiet day at the crag with a couple of buddies?

The Tribe...

jspeigl wrote:

butitsadryheat wrote:

Outside Magazine wrote:But most of the $120,000 expedition total is coming out of Team Romero's life savings.

How does a 13 year old have $120,000 in life savings?!?

By Team Romero they are referring to Jordan, Paul, and Karen.

Haha I bet they are in so much debt its not even funny. They climbed a bunch of expensive mountains before this, so I can't believe they have enough life savings for all those peaks within such a short amount of time.


BTW, the Chief is right, what ever happened to going out to the crags for fun? I'm proud to say that After only rock climbing for 4 months, I make time to hit the crags as least twice a week (this week 3 times). Someones got to get out there and hold it down!

I know...

The next record to be attempted in this grand competition will be the heaviest human to get their ass on top of the world without dying of a heart attack, HAPE, HACE etc or killing any of the sherpa's that hauled all their 02 and their big ass up there.

It will make for a new Fox TV Reality Show...

The Biggest Big "E" Summitter!

The Chief wrote:I know...

The next record to be attempted in this grand competition will be the heaviest human to get their ass on top of the world without dying of a heart attack, HAPE, HACE etc or killing any of the sherpa's that hauled all their 02 and their big ass up there.

It will make for a new Fox TV Reality Show...

The Biggest Big "E" Summitter!

Rick, you obviously don't watch enough reality television...it will be called the "Biggest Loser on E" (I don't either, but they have a spa/studio here in St. George).

zodis wrote:Didn't Reinhold Messner cash in on his fame?
Where did he get the money to buy that castle?

Don't quote me on this, but I'm fairly certain Reinhold was out of middle school when he "cashed in" on his fame. (Might've even had a kid or two by then.)

I'm just sayin'...

Alpinisto wrote:

zodis wrote:Didn't Reinhold Messner cash in on his fame?
Where did he get the money to buy that castle?

Don't quote me on this, but I'm fairly certain Reinhold was out of middle school when he "cashed in" on his fame. (Might've even had a kid or two by then.)

I'm just sayin'...

He'd already done ALL the 8kers WITHOUT 02, done and solo'd the E three times without 02 each and crossed Antarctica etc well before he "cashed in". 20 something years of busting his ass actually.

Not after his first trip up the E.

The Chief wrote:

Alpinisto wrote:

zodis wrote:Didn't Reinhold Messner cash in on his fame?
Where did he get the money to buy that castle?

Don't quote me on this, but I'm fairly certain Reinhold was out of middle school when he "cashed in" on his fame. (Might've even had a kid or two by then.)

I'm just sayin'...

He'd already done ALL the 8kers WITHOUT 02, done and solo'd the E three times without 02 each and crossed Antarctica etc well before he "cashed in". 20 something years of busting his ass actually.

Now that's called making an honest living!

Messner was already attracting a lot of criticism in the mid-70s, within Europe/UK, for his 'professional' attitude to his climbing. He was constantly travelling (by Porsche 911) to give slide-shows, media appearances and writing books. He has written* over 20 books, though only a few made it into english. By 1975 when they did Hidden Peak, he was already a full-time commercial climber, having given up hard technical alpinism and focusing on the 8000ers.

From 1978 to 1986 he did not climb any big mountains other than the 8000ers and the Seven Summits. Of course during this time he did still climb, or attempt, hard new routes on some of these peaks, and his status in the climbing world is pretty much beyond peer. In the hairstyling world .... not so much.

*By 'written' I mean he hired researchers and ghost-writers to do much of it, by his own admission. Messner did not write all of his books.

Damien Gildea wrote:From 1978 to 1986 he did not climb any big mountains other than the 8000ers and the Seven Summits. Of course during this time he did still climb, or attempt, hard new routes on some of these peaks, and his status in the climbing world is pretty much beyond peer.

Damien,

You forgot to add the most important component of all these climbs... he did them all WITHOUT supplemental 02 nor Sherpa Assistance nor the use of ANY FIXED ROPES and several were done SOLO and was the first to do so. All in Alpine Style ascents may I add without the use of sherpa's on each physical ascent.

MikeTX wrote:what'll y'all do when this kid replaces messner as "the world's greatest mountaineer"? i suppose you'll still be criticizing and spraying all your negativity all over the interwebs.

not likely.

Never happen!

Messner's accomplishments are far to deep and prolific as "Firsts" that can never be out done. He set the standards.

Had the Kid done his latest gig without supplemental 02, than maybe he'd be on his way.

100 bucks says the Kid ends this Big Hill climbing shit after he summits Vinson and completes the Seven Summit Quest. That was his ultimate goal after all....

I guarantee ya when he touches down on the "Ice" and gets to BC at the foot of Vinson, and really gets a taste of what "suffering" is all about, he throws in the towel.

Well, while were on Messner, here's a link I found to a film on him. (The link is in the gear review)

http://www.spgear.org/reviews/7131/Messner.html

several were done SOLO and was the first to do so.

I thought you were against solo?

Quote from the thread about the John Kelly death:

One last question... where were are his compatriots????

According the CAIC Report, they were all in the Hut. Seems he went out on his own. A big no no from the group of "experienced" folks in my neck of the woods.

BTW, the folks from my neck of woods do this deal over 120 days of the year. They read this and all could not believe their eyes what they had just read.

All (some of them Patroler's with over 20 years experience here at MMSA)said instantly without hesitation......"He was well experienced, huh?"

How do Messner's ascents fit in the above?

All in Alpine Style ascents

False. No offence, but you fail to know your Himalaya/Karakoram history.

For example, Gasherbrum I was his third 8000 was his first alpine ascent of a 8000 meter peak. He did repeat Nanga Parbat, but I don't belive he ever repeated Manaslu (which he didn't climb in Alpine style).

I'm not sure this level of detail is relevant to this discussion, but in regard to Messner, for the record:

- Manaslu was expedition style with fixed ropes
- Everest '78 was expedition style with fixed ropes and Sherpas
- K2 '79 was expedition style with fixed ropes
- Everest '80 solo he shuttled a load to the North Col beforehand, so not really true 'alpine style' but a staggering achievement nonetheless. Described by Anatoli Boukreev as "the climb by which all others are measured"
- Kanchenjunga and Annapurna were new routes in expedition style using fixed ropes
- Lhotse used the Sherpa-fixed ropes in the Khumbu icefall
- on the G1-G2 traverse Little Karim (Balti HAP) carried some of their gear for some of the way

etc etc ...