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Kaltenbrunner, Pivtsov, Zhumayev join eight-thousanders club

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 4:01 am
by nickua
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Darek Zaluski, Vassiliy Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev have left their bivouac at 8,300m on K2 north pillar yesterday at 1:30 am, local time, towards the summit.
An icy, starry night welcomed the climbers as they departed," Ralf Dujmovits reported from BC. "Cold made things tough since, although the slope above the bivouac place is "only" 45 degrees, most of the time they have to climb on their crampons' front points, which restricts blood flow and, at -25 ° , leads to to icy feet."

Gerlinde, Max, Vassiliy and Darek are also fighting wet boots and general exhaustion after over two months on the hill. Nevertheless, at 07:30 clock they were on the go and making good progress, according to Ralf.

Gerlinde has checked in on the radio from 8,400m at 11.30am, local time. The team was having a though time due to bitter cold, but hoped for the sun to hit the face soon, and therefore felt confident
At 18:35 local time they summited K2 (Japanese route)
20:30 they been spotted at upper porting of Japanese colour
22:20 they climbed down to the tent and decided to proceed to C4
This is the link to their approximate location
http://www.kazpatriot.kz/ekspeditsiya-n ... efire.html

Re: Kaltenbrunner, Pivtsov, Zhumayev join eight-thousanders

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 7:55 am
by Bruno
Congratulations to all four of them. This is the first ascent of K2 since 2008.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner becomes the first woman to have climbed all 14 8000ers without supplemental O2.

Wishing them a safe descent.

http://www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at/en/neuigkeiten/
http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/download. ... nfo&id=155

Edit: Just noticed that the info is already given in the Karakoram thread.

Re: Kaltenbrunner, Pivtsov, Zhumayev join eight-thousanders

PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 10:40 am
by Diego Sahagún
K2 north pillar SUMMITS! Gerlinde bags the first female No-O2 14x8000ers ascent - Max, Vassiliy and Darek on top too:

http://www.explorersweb.com/world/news.php?id=20313

Re: Kaltenbrunner, Pivtsov, Zhumayev join eight-thousanders

PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:56 pm
by Diego Sahagún
It's in National Geographic current issue: http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2012/04/k2/brown-text