"fixed" carabiners can get sharp, cut ropes
Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 1:56 amRecently there was a report of a draw in Switzerland being worn in such a way as to cut the rope for the climber who fell immediately above that fixed anchor. In 2010 there was another such accident due to a sharpened carabiner at the Red River Gorge. The recent Swiss accident was fatal for the guide attempting the moves protected by this gear. I think the same happened in the RRG, but in the 2010 RRG incident the climber survived. Noted this in Rock and Ice.