SummitPost.org

Anyone been up it lately?

Attempted to climb it on 2007, but had to retreat due to the horrible conditions en route - very bad quality ice, rocks falling down on the route at high speed (felt like Russian roulette, honestly), icicles breaking off the rock walls from above (almost got hit), water dropping down from the glacier above, snow showers...it took forever to finish a few pitches. The problem is to get onto the glacier proper. Its lower part is almost gone, leaving steep ice. I was there in February (warm season), and would not recommend to try it then. Summer months (cold season) might be better, but it's a quite serious undertaking anyway.

JanVanGenk wrote:Attempted to climb it on 2007, but had to retreat due to the horrible conditions en route - very bad quality ice, rocks falling down on the route at high speed (felt like Russian roulette, honestly), icicles breaking off the rock walls from above (almost got hit), water dropping down from the glacier above, snow showers...it took forever to finish a few pitches. The problem is to get onto the glacier proper. Its lower part is almost gone, leaving steep ice. I was there in February (warm season), and would not recommend to try it then. Summer months (cold season) might be better, but it's a quite serious undertaking anyway.

I faintly remember you showing me pictures of this. Might be helpfull... .