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Re: 3000m half november alps

PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 3:44 pm
by Gangolf Haub
sjarelkwint wrote:Is there an easy 3000m mountain in europe where i can drive to from belgium within 8 hours and where na glacier needs to be climbed ...

Can Zugspitze be done with only a 40m rope and some belaying or do i need more protection like ice screws and stuff?

just looking for an interesting mountain around the 14th of november and people who are interested ...


For Zugspitze all you need is a ticket on either the cable-car or the train. 8)

PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 7:59 am
by Gangolf Haub
sjarelkwint wrote:yeah ok but that's not the way i wanne climb it ...


Have a look at the Zugspitze page - as far as I remember, there is a TR there of someone (Sebastian Hamm?) who climbed the Höllental Route in winter. Maybe you can contact him directly by PM. If your goal is any 3000er you should go where there are many of these available. I just returned from Burgeis in Upper Vinschgau near the Reschen Pass. You have lots of choices but there was already snow (lots) on the summits above 2200m in late September. Given the current weather situation I would guess it's even worse now.

Re: 3000m half november alps

PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 2:24 pm
by cb294
sjarelkwint wrote:Is there an easy 3000m mountain in europe where i can drive to from belgium within 8 hours and where na glacier needs to be climbed ...

Can Zugspitze be done with only a 40m rope and some belaying or do i need more protection like ice screws and stuff?

just looking for an interesting mountain around the 14th of november and people who are interested ...


Just came back from the Ötztal (1,5h further than Garmisch). We made the mistake of climbing Kreuzspitze (from Martin Busch Huette) which is one huge rubble pile. As long as the avalanche situation permits the climb should be much better when snow covers the talus. Guaranteed no glacier, but even the fantastic view will not make me go up that route again in summer!

Zugspitze can probably be done in Winter, but again only when the avalacnhe situation is OK, especially in the upper Höllental. A 40m rope should be enough to belay you across most bits of the Höllental ferrata even when the wires are buried in snow. However, when I last climbed the route a guy disappeared into a crevasse in what remains of the "glacier", so take care even it is just a couple of hundreds of meters! The other routes (from Ehrwald or through the Reintal) would take you right through the skiing areas, and I would avoid them in winter.

Christian