Tom Fralich wrote:When I think of climbs in Chamonix given an alpine grade of D, I think of routes like Frendo Spur, Kuffner, Mer de Glace Face of the Grepon, etc. In Zermatt, I think of Schaligrat, Zmuttgrat, etc. If you think that routes like Exum, East Butt of Whitney, and Spearhead are even comparable to these, you're dreaming. It's very likely that you're going to arrive there and get on a PD route and realize that it's a different environment. But the nature of the questions you ask (not just in this thread) conveys a certain lack of judgement. Look at the caption on your profile photo:
"Only truly lazy bastards would leave for the summit at 11AM."
How many lightning strikes have occured on the Grand in late afternoon? What made the day that you climbed any different? Lazy isn't the word I would have chosen.
OK Tom, perhaps I AM stupid and inexperienced, but why don't you suggest some routes that you think I should be looking at?
FYI on the Grand I had woken up late on an acclimatization day and went up to the Upper Saddle for an acclimatization day. There were some winds and some high-altitude cover but nothing that looked threatening, so we went ahead and summitted via the Owen-Spalding. It was windy but no precip or thunderstorms the entire day.