SummitPost.org

My Golden Rule which was impressed on me several decades ago...

Tie In (Clove Hitch) immediately each and every time upon reaching or placing a bomber piece of Pro while building a bomber stance. Then immediately shift your Tie In point to the Power Point.

Two separate questions:

1) when to tie yourself to the rope?

2) when already tied to the rope, when to tie the rope to a (partially built) anchor?

Chief answered the second question.

Borut gave some points on the first question.

Now the synthesis: Rope without Pro is not much use. In some cases [e.g. glacier walking], your partner's ability to arrest shall be considered your Pro. Taking a small child on a glacier shall be considered soloing.

In the case of a child, if the child is anchored, then they can hold you (maybe using a self-locking device). The child should probably belay you from the anchor. In case of belayer error, you want your rope to be tied to the anchor, and the child attached to the anchor separately so their body doesn't take the force of your fall. (A simple way to accomplish this is to clove hitch your rope to the anchor, near the end. The child is tied in normally, attached to the anchor via the clove hitch which also takes your weight in case of an otherwise unarrested fall.) But don't just leave the end of your rope loose. If you fall in that case, you've left the child alone (after you fell to your death) in the middle of technical ground.

nartreb wrote:Rope without Pro is not much use.

You took this right out of my mouth. Except glacier travel and those very few cases when natural features can be used as pro (ridges etc.), I don't see no point in roping up while simul-climbing when there's no pro between partners.
With rope teams e.g on steep snow slopes it's often one down - all down...

bcknfrth wrote:This has got to be a troll.

He asked an honest question and deserves quality responses. It does not look like trolling.

I think Borut meant "when to tie in" as in "when to use a rope." His first point is interesting, that if you don't know what lies ahead, even though the ground is quite easy at the moment, you'd better tie in (and place pro too). This is a good rule to remember...when I've forgotten it I've ended up standing at a sketchy place, trying to fumble a rope out of a pack, and wishing I'd done this at the "boring" loose ledge below.

The point about the child, I don't know! :p

The "when to use a rope" question is my recent concern too..I read carefully all of you.
Sorry for the funny, maybe, question. What do you mean by the use of the word "Pro"?
Lost you there *shy*

panamos wrote:The "when to use a rope" question is my recent concern too..I read carefully all of you.
Sorry for the funny, maybe, question. What do you mean by the use of the word "Pro"?
Lost you there *shy*

They're talking about placing professionals in the rock

drtbg wrote:

panamos wrote:The "when to use a rope" question is my recent concern too..I read carefully all of you.
Sorry for the funny, maybe, question. What do you mean by the use of the word "Pro"?
Lost you there *shy*

Another fine example of the kind of climber this site attracts.

Yeah, there certainly are all types here. Not sure why that seems to irritate you. I for one am appreciative of the information I receive from the more experienced climbers and there willingness to inform me.

Ok, excuse us please for asking nooby questions Mr. Pro (fessionals).
BTW, what are you two doing in this thread?
It's a pity to be like that though, you can get a life instead.

Thanks the rest of you guys in SP for the help so far in making my way up the mountain safer and easier.
Cheers.
P.