SummitPost.org

hello all..
planing on some light winter mountaineering in Slovenia around the of end of Feb\beginning March,any advise regarding a winter ascent of triglav via krma and jalovec via Zavetisce pod Spicko refuge (normal routes available in winter that i could find on SP).

any advise for these ascents or any other routes/peaks best taken during these time of year or any different route to take.
worst conditions to expect , and traffic on the mountains.
should i delay my arrival to the end of march are the conditions worth while a a few week later?
what guidebook should i get?

SP pages on julian alps spell out round the year ascent capable for these mountains is this still the case?
the routes i chose seem easy enough for a winter climb and require at best roped climbing.

this is my plan for now
thank you.

Hi etai!

This is now a bit hard to recommend, because it all depends on the amount of snow on mountains. Currenty we don't have much show, but it can quickly change. So, my first question would be: Do you intend to use skis to get on higher regions? If not, then the amount of snow is very important. On Triglav some people climb also in Feb, March, on Jalovec rarely anyone goes on foot. So, going without skis can require a lot of endurance. And my second question to you would be about your experience in limestone mountains. You know, it's different than granite of Mont Blanc. But as I see on your portfolio you can climb harder details so these routes should not be too hard for you, even in winter.

Otherwise your choices are good. If conditions are good, Triglav and Jalovec are perfect goals. While coming on Triglav through Krma, you can expect to sleep on Kredarica - metheorologists are always there and there is a winter room. For Jalovec, I would not go via Zavetisce pod Spicko. It's a typical summer route, in winter conditions I'd say that the ferrata part above the hut is problematic. In winter conditions it is far the best option to ascend Jalovec from the north, from Planica valley. There is a nice couloir going up there, in good conditions and for good skiers it can even be done with skis. But it needs to be safe of avalanches. Then the upper part of the ascent is the same for all approach routes.

Regarding guidebooks, I don't know if there is anything for winter ascents in English. What is in English are some best summer ascents and perhaps technical climbs (in crags etc.). But try to Google for it.

If it is equal for you, then I'd say end of March is better than start of March. Days are longer, may be you find already steps on those mountains. Before the arrival just let me know and If I can, I will see conditions and weather forecast.

Cheers!
Vid