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Dreamweaver?

PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 7:45 pm
by jmh5331
I'm looking at climbing Dreamweaver couloir on Mt. Meeker sometime next week, has anyone been up there recently to look at the conditions?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 4:08 pm
by jmh5331
In case anyone is wondering, Dreamweaver was fantastic. The route is in pretty classic conditions right now, but probably will not stay that way for long. Get on the route early (by sunrise) and the snow/ice will be solid (one swing sticks). The first chockstone is easily passable, the second is more melted out and required some fun mixed climbing. Once passed the Flying Buttress the ice is in good shape, with more ice than snow in the narrow parts. Snow runs almost the entire way to Meeker's summit ridge, but was very soft when we were there at 9am. Descending the Loft was a non-event if you put on your crampons and ice ax on the ledge traverse. Beautiful glissading back to Chasm Lake.