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CO - No Approach Snow Climbs

PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 5:13 pm
by sshankle
I'll be in town on business and able to fit a climb in on June 4. This is my first day out since a back surgery in the fall and I'll be solo. So I'm looking to take it quite easy. I know it has been a low snow year. Does anyone have any beta on the routes below? Other suggestions would be great!

- Mount Evans North Face Couloirs
- Pikes Peak North Side Couloirs
- Sundance Mtn North Couloirs (road open?)

I've done some of the options on Evans and Pikes before. I've never seen the Sundance couloirs, but read about them in the Cooper book.

Again, other suggestions of some fun options would be much appreciated! Thanks for any insight!

Scott

:D 8)

Re: CO - No Approach Snow Climbs

PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 2:57 am
by mconnell
I looked at the N. Face of Pikes on my way home. Snow would definitely be thin. Lower part of the couloirs is bare. Step in the left branch of the Y looks bare but otherwise it looks (from miles away) to be continuous. Couldn't really see the Railroad, but it looks like there are a several bare spots. You could try, but it would be a gamble. If you go and are going to drive to the top of Rumdoodle Ridge, search online for a discount coupon for the road.

Re: CO - No Approach Snow Climbs

PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 9:54 am
by Kiefer
sshankle wrote:I'll be in town on business and able to fit a climb in on June 4. This is my first day out since a back surgery in the fall and I'll be solo. So I'm looking to take it quite easy. I know it has been a low snow year. Does anyone have any beta on the routes below? Other suggestions would be great!

- Mount Evans North Face Couloirs
- Pikes Peak North Side Couloirs
- Sundance Mtn North Couloirs (road open?)

I've done some of the options on Evans and Pikes before. I've never seen the Sundance couloirs, but read about them in the Cooper book.

Again, other suggestions of some fun options would be much appreciated! Thanks for any insight!

Scott

:D 8)


The first thing that comes too mind is Dead Dog Couloir on Torreys. As I understand, it's still in.
South Paw on Torreys is guarded by a cornice still (usually the case) and Lost Rat (Grays Peak) is melted out.

But Dead Dog is a good, LONG moderate climb. About ~2,000ft if I remember correctly.
If you have decent clearance on your car (or 4x4), you can drive clear to the Steven's Gulch TH making the approach about ~1.5 miles.
Only about 30 minutes from Denver! :D

Re: CO - No Approach Snow Climbs

PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:09 am
by sshankle
Thanks guys. I ended up climbing the north face snowfield on Mount Evans. It was great!

Sunshine looked doable, as did a cooler of lines to the left of the main snowfield that I tooK.